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Whether you’re building or upgrading your PC, the size of its motherboard plays a big role in choosing computer components. It affects everything from how many parts you can install to how much room your case needs to how many ports are available. Mini ITX and Micro ATX are two common choices for those who want a more portable build or something that doesn’t take up as much real estate as a standard ATX case.
Both Mini-ITX and Micro ATX boards are squares, whereas standard ATX is a rectangle. Between the two smaller sizes, the Mini-ITX board is noticeably smaller at 6.7 inches x 6.7 inches, while the Micro ATX measures 9.6 inches x 9.6 inches. That extra space matters when you’re thinking about expansion, airflow, and compatibility. While both boards are designed to work in smaller cases, they do target different needs.
Mini-ITX is a better fit for ultra-compact systems and can be found among some of the best motherboards for gaming. Micro ATX, on the other hand, offers more room without taking up as much space as standard ATX, allowing for more hardware options. So if you’re deciding between the two, start with size and how much flexibility you need. From there, it’s all about what kind of build you’re planning, whether you want something ultra-compact or a system with more room to grow.
Mini ITX offers a small size, but with big trade-offs
Building a small form factor PC like a Mini-ITX requires a lot of considerations because of its compact design, but there are some great benefits, too. They can be quieter than other builds since the cases they fit into don’t have enough room for an abundance of fans. Moreover, they use less power and often require fewer cables, which can make for a cleaner setup. The Mini-ITX size makes them useful as home theater PCs, portable workstations, and even media servers, proving that a board doesn’t have to be big to be impactful.
There are some trade-offs, though. Mini-ITX motherboards typically have only two memory slots for RAM and offer fewer connectivity ports. There’s also a limited number of PCIe slots, which limits your options when it comes to graphics and other expansion cards. You have to pay close attention to the size of the GPU you want because larger ones might not be supported. Airflow can be a concern, too, due to fewer fan headers and compact cases. These boards are best suited for users who know how to optimize the available space.
Price is a big consideration. Because of their compact and specialized design, Mini-ITX boards can actually cost more than larger ones. For example, the ASUS ROG STRIX B860-I Gaming Mini-ITX currently goes for $219.99. While Mini-ITX can be a great option for compact, quiet builds, it’s not always the most budget-friendly or flexible choice.
Micro ATX is a larger option with more flexibility
Micro ATX boards might be smaller than standard ATX, but they’re larger than Mini-ITX ones, offering more room for components. That extra space means you can install full-size graphics cards, take advantage of better airflow, and add more cooling fans. This makes Micro ATX a strong option for users who want a smaller case but don’t want to compromise on performance.
Micro ATX boards also support more memory and expansion options. Most Micro ATX motherboards come with four RAM slots and multiple PCIe slots, which gives you more flexibility if you need to add more or faster RAM, sound cards, or upgrade your GPU later. They tend to have more connectivity ports than Mini-ITX, as well, which can be useful if you’re using a lot of peripherals or external drives. It’s a balanced option that works well for gaming, general use, or even light productivity.
One of the biggest advantages of Micro ATX is the price. They’re generally cheaper than Mini-ITX boards and offer more features for the money. At the time of this writing, the AORUS Elite AX AMDB 650 Micro-ATX, for example, goes for about $175.99. So unless you specifically need a super small build, a Micro ATX board might be the way to go for those small builds, giving your rig more room to grow over time.
The Nintendo Switch 2 has arrived, alongside a launch line-up containing Mario Kart Worldand Nintendo Switch 2 Welcome Tour. In addition to the console and games, a number of accessories for the new console are also now available, including the Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller. Released alongside the new console, the GameCube controller is basically a new version of the classic controller, with the same look and feel as it had 20 years ago. It exists so thatyou can use it with the Nintendo Switch Online + Expansion Pack GameCube gameslaunched alongside the new system.
The controller itself feels the way you want it to, including the classic crunchy triggers. It has an added ZL button, which allows you to play some regular Nintendo Switch 2 with the controller, although there are some limitations to that. The Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller feels excellent to use in both GameCube online games and new games alike, but a lack of clickable thumbsticks and button remapping being limited to GameCube NSO games makes this one a little tougher to recommend than the quality of the controller would suggest.
Make waves with this classic-style controller! The Nintendo GameCube™ controller has the familiar look and feel of the original, along with modern features like the C-Button, which can open GameChat*, and the Capture Button. The Nintendo GameCube controller is only compatible with the Nintendo Switch™ 2 system.
Pros & Cons
Feels true to the original GameCube controller
Added ZL and capture buttons make the controller useful outside of GameCube games
Triggers feel exactly how they should
Lighter than I would like
Button mapping is limited to GameCube NSO games
No alternative to clicking in thumb sticks limits the games you can us it with
Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller price and availability
The Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller is available exclusively throughNintendo’s websitefor $65. There are no other retailers that sell it, and you are required to have an active Nintendo Switch Online subscription in order to purchase it. You don’t need to have the Expansion Pack subscription, just the base one, although you will need a premium subscription to play GameCube NSO games. You are also limited to one controller per Nintendo Switch Online account, with no timeframe for when you might be able to get a second one.
It feels exactly the way I remember GameCube controllers feeling
To start with the positives, the Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller feels just like an original GameCube controller feels. While that is partially from my memory of the controller, I have used an actual GameCube controller to play on a real GameCube within the past few months. Because of that, I can say pretty confidently that the vast majority of people would not be able to tell the difference between the two controllers just by holding one. It does have an added ZL button, which I wish was the same size as the Z button on the right, but it allows you to play most Nintendo Switch 2 games with it. The shoulder buttons have pressure-sensitive clicking, so you can accurately play Nintendo GameCube games. It even works in Super Mario Sunshinein the now delisted Super Mario 3D All-Stars.
I can say pretty confidently that the vast majority of people would not be able to tell the difference between the two controllers just by holding one.
Both the sticks feel a bit sturdier than the original sticks, although that could be a result of this being a brand-new controller, and the GameCube controller I recently used is not. All the extra buttons, the C button, capture, home, and the sync button, have been relegated to the top of the controller, a good spot for all of them except the capture button, which I wish was a bit more convenient.
Bizarre and unnecessary limitations
Button mapping, but only in NSO GameCube games
Outside of playing the Nintendo Switch Online GameCube games, my mileage with the GameCube controller varied far more than I expected. I played a significant amount ofMario Kart Worldusing the controller, and I didn’t have any issues playing the game until I ventured into Free Roam. In Free Roam, I attempted a challenge and failed, resulting in the game prompting me to click the right stick to reset. Neither stick on the GameCube controller clicks, but I figured I could remap it, sinceMario Kart Worlddoesn’t use all the buttons, anyway. That’s when I discovered that button mapping is not available for the GameCube controller on the system level.
This limits the controller’s use pretty heavily, and in a way that doesn’t make much sense to me.
This was a bit of a shock for two reasons. First, there doesn’t seem to be any explanation for why any controller wouldn’t be able to use the system-level button mapping. Second, and even more frustrating, is that I had remapped the buttons while playingSoulCalibur 2. Within NSO GameCube games, you can fully remap the buttons on the GameCube controller without any real limitation. This makes the lack of button mapping elsewhere even more frustrating, since the functionality is obviously there. Furthermore, this means that any game where you need to click the sticks you can’t play with a GameCube controller, which could be fixed in most situations by simple button remapping. This limits the controller’s use pretty heavily, and in a way that doesn’t make much sense to me.
A great controller held back by weird Nintendo decisions
As someone who grew up with a GameCube, my nostalgia for the controller and games is incredibly powerful. I understand that, and that’s partially what makes me love using the controller so much, but there are simple design choices that speak to me. I love that the face buttons seem more concerned with comfortable placement than a clean look, the triggers still feel incredible to click on, and I love how the main thumbstick feels.
Despite my love of that original controller and its recreation of the Switch 2, the Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller has some dumb and inexcusable limitations. Not being able to remap buttons for most games, despite the functionality being present for the NSO GameCube games, feels like a choice meant to force you to only use the controller for those games. There are still plenty of games I can play with the controller, not having button remapping limits the number, and does so for seemingly no reason. That said, it’s a great feeling controller, and if that sounds appealing to you, it’s worth the price, even with these limitations.
Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube Controller
7/ 10
Number of Colors1
Wireless?Yes
Compatible SystemsNintendo Switch 2
Color OptionsBlueThe Nintendo Switch 2 GameCube controller feels like an excellent recreation of the classic controller. The triggers are pressure sensitive, the sticks feel great, and the added ZL button makes it work with some Switch 2 games. A lack of button remapping outside the NSO GameCube controllers unfortunately limits its usefulness.
The router breakthrough we were (maybe) waiting for?
(Image credit: Guru3d)
TP-Link’s EAP772-Outdoor survives immersion, but the signal won’t follow it into the water
Built to endure harsh elements, but not the hype surrounding underwater wireless capabilities
Enterprise users might love it, but it feels like overkill for your average Wi-Fi needs
TP-Link has announced a new Wi-Fi 7 access point that not only supports the latest wireless standard, but also boasts an IP68 rating which allows it to withstand full water immersion.
On paper, this rugged Wi-Fi 7 access point looks great, with tri-band wireless speeds up to 9.3Gbps, support for over 380 connected devices, and 2.5Gbps Power over Ethernet (PoE) for streamlined setup.
However, the decision to highlight full immersion capabilities invites a more skeptical look, especially considering the known limitations of wireless communication in water.
The device is equipped with two 4 dBi antennas for the 2.4GHz band and two 6dBi antennas each for the 5GHz and 6GHz bands.
It operates across the 2.4GHz, 5GHz, and 6GHz bands, offering maximum theoretical speeds of up to 688Mbps, 2.88Gbps, and 5.76Gbps, respectively, and supports a coverage area of around 300 square meters and a five-year warranty by the company.
So, while the router might physically survive immersion, the idea of underwater Wi-Fi remains questionable.
Standard Wi-Fi is inherently ineffective underwater. Radio frequencies, especially at 2.4GHz and above, are quickly absorbed by water, leaving little room for practical transmission beyond a few feet.
Water blocks the very signals the device is designed to emit, raising doubts about how the LAN port would even be protected from moisture once submerged.
If we momentarily entertain the concept of underwater wireless use, the practical applications are narrow and not well served by conventional Wi-Fi.
Divers, for instance, would benefit from the ability to send data or communicate without relying on hand signals or physical boards.
Real-time image sharing or sensor readings from underwater drones to surface computers could be useful in scientific or military operations.
However, these needs are already being addressed by emerging technologies like Aqua-Fi, which uses LED, laser, or acoustic waves for underwater data transmission, none of which involve standard Wi-Fi frequencies.
TP-Link has not suggested any integration with such systems, nor has it indicated that the EAP772-Outdoor is intended for submerged deployment beyond mere survivability.
That raises the question of why the waterproof feature is being emphasized at all. For outdoor venues, where rain, dust, and heat are threats, weatherproofing makes sense.
But full immersion? Unless the router is accidentally dropped in a pond or installed in a highly flood-prone area, it’s difficult to see the value.
For users seeking thebest Wi-Fi router, the EAP772-Outdoor may excel in terms of outdoor reliability.
Enterprise clients needing tough gear for open-air deployment might also make sense out of this device, but for anyone shopping for amobile hotspotorswitchfor home or office use, this might seem more like overengineering.
The TP-Link EAP772 is expected to retail around $565 when it launches in June 2025.
VRAM — video memory — is what your graphics card uses to store textures, lighting data, shadows, reflections, and all the other visual assets that make your PC games look the way they should. That data is then processed by the GPU in real time to render each frame you see on your monitor. If your GPU’s VRAM is too small, it has to start swapping that data in and out of slower system memory — your RAM and SSD — and that’s when you get lag, weird and blurry textures, hitching cutscenes, or games refuses to launch entirely. That’s why VRAM matters more than most people think.
The amount of VRAM you need will depend on the games you play, and the resolution you’re targeting — and the answer isn’t always “as much as you can afford.” If you’re playing esports titles like “Valorant,” “CS2,” “Fortnite,” or even “Warzone,” you won’t need much. Right now, the safe floor for those games at 1080p resolution is 8 GB of VRAM — most players are running low setting presets anyway to boost frame rates and reduce input lag.
Most modern singleplayer games will chew right through those 8 GB even at 1080p with high settings. If you don’t want to trade graphics quality for fps or just want to keep your GPU for longer, you’ll need at least 12-16 GB of VRAM. You don’t even need to be maxing out every setting out to hit the VRAM wall, especially not today. Once you understand how games use VRAM — and how to check what your system needs — it gets a lot easier to buy smart.
There’s a reason so many people still use 8 GB cards. For years, it was the safe middle ground — enough memory, good performance, and generally fine unless you were going heavy on the mods or pushing 4K. Even now, cards like the RX 6600 and RTX 3060 are still in a lot of builds. If you are running medium settings, they’ll still get the job done in most cases. With the games coming out today, 8 gigs of VRAM now sits right on the edge for 1080p gaming.
We’re already seeing games at high settings pushing past 8 gigs of VRAM usage. Titles like “Cyberpunk 2077,” “Hogwarts Legacy,” “Alan Wake 2,” “Stalker 2,” and “Indiana Jones and the Great Circle” are all pushing past 8 GB, and that’s before you turn on anything extra. Once you step up to 1440p or 4K resolution — which more and more people are doing now for AAA games — VRAM usage climbs.
Ray tracing makes the problem worse, as it adds more data on top of what’s already being rendered, so if you’re trying to run RT on an 8GB card, you’re already maxing things out. While AI-upscaling technologies like Nvidia’s DLSS and AMD’s FSR can definitely help with frame rates and using less VRAM, the visual data from these models still has to live somewhere. And if you’re already hitting the hardware limit on graphics memory, there’s nothing software can do to fix it.
The easy way to tell if your GPU has enough VRAM for games
Every game sold on Steam, Epic, or the publisher’s own store lists minimum and recommended PC specs. Those specs show the GPU model and the VRAM each setting preset expects, but lately, there are more things to look out for. More games are listing VRAM requirements directly, and in some cases, you’ll start losing features if your card doesn’t have enough of bandwidth.
“Indiana Jones and the Great Circle” is a good example: The game won’t even launch unless your GPU supports hardware-based ray tracing, which immediately rules out most budget and AMD graphics cards. Even if your graphics card does meet the requirement, there’s another barrier to clear. The official recommendation is a 12 GB RTX 3080 Ti, so if you have a 10 GB RTX 3080, the ray tracing menu won’t even show up for you. This is only going to become more common.
A lot of recent titles now include a VRAM usage bar in the settings menu that fills up as you raise graphics quality. Going too far will turn the usage bar red and, in some cases, display a warning message that you are over your graphics card’s memory limit.
If you want to get more specific, you can download MSI Afterburner, turn on the on-screen display, and play a game you normally run at high settings. It’s a great way to know where your GPU and VRAM stand. Keep your eye on the VRAM usage while playing. If you’re hitting 7.8 GB and your card has 8, you’re already on borrowed time — any big scene, explosion, or cutscene with a lot of scenery or camera pans can result in your game glitching or crashing.
Right now, the13-inch MacBook Air M4comfortably sits at the top of ourbest laptopslist. And with good reason. It’s $100 cheaper than its predecessors yet packs impressive power, a sharp webcam and long battery life in an elegant chassis. If you likemacOSand need a reliable laptop that’s easy to travel with, this is the notebook to get.
Since I review thebest Windows laptopsandbest MacBooks, I like to use machines featuring those respective operating systems. For work and gaming, I preferWindows 11, but for leisure, I prefer a MacBook since it pairs nicely with my Apple devices like theiPhone 16 Pro MaxandiPad Pro M4. For the latter, my go-to machine is the 13-inch MacBook Air M4.
Here are my pros and cons after using the 13-inch MacBook Air M4 for the past three months.
At home, I have a16-inch MacBook Pro M4 Prothat I reviewed late last year. While that laptop has a gorgeous 16-inch display, a roomy keyboard, plenty of ports and delivers excellent performance, I don’t use it as my daily driver because it’s too big and heavy. When I’m at home or on the road, I want to use something lightweight, hence the 13-inch MacBook Air M4.
At 11.9 x 8.4 x 0.4 inches and 2.7 pounds, the MacBook Air M4 lives up to its “Air” moniker since it’s so thin and light. When I’m home and want to quickly send some messages or browse the internet, using this laptop is more convenient than its bulkier 16-inch sibling.
Similarly, I can almost forget the laptop is in my backpack when I take it on the road. That’s important since I travel to many press events. Having a thin and light computer that doesn’t literally weigh me down is crucial.
Speaking of design, I’m still a fan of the MacBook Air’s nondescript design, which is something all modern MacBooks share. Aside from the iconic Apple logo on the back, the laptop is free of embellishments, which is perfect for me.
Plenty of power and battery life
The 13-inch MacBook Air M4 I have features an M4 chip, 16GB of RAM and 256GB of storage. Thanks to that, it delivers plenty of performance for my everyday workload, which consists of usingGooglefor browsing the web and word processing.
Since I mostly use the MacBook Air M4 at home, I don’t often have dozens of open tabs like I do when working on articles. But if I’m on a work trip, I know this laptop has more than enough power to handle whatever I throw at it. I might say otherwise if I were editing videos (which this machine is quite capable of), but since I’m a writer, that’s not a concern. That said, editing photos in GIMP is a breeze on this laptop.
The M4 chip doesn’t just deliver excellent performance. Since this chip is so efficient, this MacBook Air has stellar battery life. In our battery test, which involves continuous web surfing over Wi-Fi with the display set to 150 nits of brightness, the laptop endured for nearly 15 hours. For my purposes, which involve web surfing and watchingYouTubevideos, I generally have to charge the laptop every two or three days, which is pretty great.
YouTube is my main source of entertainment outside of gaming, and I watch plenty of it on the MacBook Air M4. Doing so is pretty enjoyable thanks to the bright and colorful 13.6-inch Liquid Retina display. Yes, things look better on the iPad Pro M4 OLED’s panel, but the MacBook Air M4 still delivers excellent image quality.
In our lab testing, the 13-inch MacBook Air M4’s screen reached 470 nits of brightness when displaying HDR content. That’s close to the marketed 500 nits of brightness, which is awesome. The level of brightness hits the sweet spot of being vivid but not overbearing. Because of that, I never feel much (or any) eye strain even after hours of use.
The four-speaker sound system also helps all the YouTube videos I watch sound great. That said, this isn’t an ideal device for listening to music since the bass is kind of disappointing. But when it comes to podcasts and similar videos, the speakers do a solid job.
MacBook Air M4: Cons
Minimal game support compared to PC
Apple has been making great strides with gaming since the company began releasing M-series computers. Games likeBaldur’s Gate 3andResident Evil 4, which have been optimized for Apple silicon, look and run like a dream on current Macs.Cyberpunk 2077 is also coming to Macs, which proves that game companies are starting to view Macs as a viable platform.
That said, despite Apple’s admittedly laudable gaming efforts, I won’t ditch my gaming PC for a Mac any time soon. For instance, the majority of games on my Steam account aren’t available or won’t run well on Macs. M4 Macs have more than enough power to run graphically demanding games, but that doesn’t mean much if you can’t play some of the biggest titles on Macs. I seriously doubtGrand Theft Auto VIwill be available for Macs at launch (though I’d love to be wrong).
I know that I can play Windows games on a Mac through software like Parallels. While that’s great, some games won’t always work as intended. Plus, I don’t like the idea of using third-party software to run games. Native support is always best, but that’s sadly lacking for many of thebest PC games.
Not a lot of ports
Though I prefer using a 13-inch MacBook Air M4 over a 16-inch MacBook Pro M4, the latter has a greater number of ports.
While I can minimize this issue by connecting to one of thebest wireless miceandbest wireless keyboards, I’d need to purchase a USB dock with an HDMI port if I want to connect the Air M4 to my monitor. This isn’t a problem with a MacBook Pro, which does have an HDMI port.
The minimal port selection isn’t a huge problem since I mostly use the MacBook Air M4 as a laptop instead of a replacement PC. I also appreciate that it has MagSafe charging, so I don’t have to use up one of those USB-C ports. Still, I wouldn’t mind more ports if I ever need them.
My favorite MacBook
The MacBook Pro is Apple’s premium laptop and certainly one of my favorites. That said, the humble 13-inch MacBook Air M4 is my go-to choice since it better fits my lifestyle.
It’s lighter than even a 14-inch MacBook Pro and more portable than the 15-inch MacBook Air. And though I wish it had more ports, it has plenty of power for my needs, along with a phenomenal display and long-lasting battery life.
While it’s more of an iterative update, it’s my preferred MacBook and the best MacBook for most people. I don’t think I’ll switch to another laptop for everyday use anytime soon.
The Nintendo Switch 2 is an apt name for the company’s latest console, as it is essentially a more powerful version of its predecessor. What’s impressive, though, is just how much of an improvement over the original Switch it is. With support for 4K and 1440p resolutions as well as 120Hz in both docked and handheld play, Nintendo has successfully played catch-up with other contemporary consoles. Its 1080p vivid LCD screen is also immaculate, displaying titles with a clarity that you rarely see from other gaming handhelds. Battery life is a downgrade, however, and paired with some Bluetooth audio issues and a handful of issues with other features, there are definitely some teething issues at launch.
Pros
+Premium build
+Gorgeous, vivid 1080p LCD display
+Blissfully smooth UI/UX
+A notable step up in game performance from its predecessor
+Excellent backward compatibility breathes new life into old games
After what felt like an eternity of waiting after all the leaks and eventual official announcement back in January 2025, the Nintendo Switch 2 is finally here. To say the console’s had a rough start is an understatement, though, with retail stock difficulty to come by at this early stage. This, plus the console’s relatively lofty price tag (as well as those of its games), means there are some folks seeking handheld gaming console alternatives.
At the time of writing, I’ve had my Nintendo Switch 2 a couple of weeks, and I’ve been spending each and every day playing its games and testing the hardware to rate its performance and assess any improvements over the original 2017 console. Despite the lack of ambition and innovation (at least compared to prior consoles like the Wii and Nintendo DS), I think Nintendo has produced an exceptional system here that finally realizes the full potential of theSwitchconcept.
The obvious upgrades, such as support for4Kand 1440p resolutions in docked mode and 120Hz capabilities (both in portable mode and docked on compatible displays) are extremely welcome, and grant the Switch 2 a step closer to parity with its more powerful peers in thePS5andXbox Series Xand S. Of course, the Switch 2 doesn’t quite have the raw graphical prowess of those Sony and Microsoft-built machines, but it’s not a million miles away, as we see with certain Nintendo Switch 2 ports likeStreet Fighter 6orCyberpunk 2077.
Other display-oriented modernities are present here, too, such as HDR10 and VRR support (though, confusingly, variable refresh rate is currently only available in handheld play). The former provides juicier contrast and richer colors on compatible displays, while the latter smooths out framerates for more stable performance.
Unfortunately, it’s fair to say that the Switch 2’s launch game line-up is on the slighter side.Mario Kart Worldis great and an ideal title to have from day one, but a good chunk of launch day games have been ports of original Switch games or ones carried over from other platforms. While it is great to see big hitters likeThe Legend of Zelda: Tears of the Kingdomrock an extremely solid 4K/60fps on Switch 2, it hasn’t been the most fulsome launch if you’re coming at it from a strictly first-party point of view.
Thankfully, the Switch 2 breathes life into original Switch titles via impressive backwards compatibility. I’ll delve more into this in its own section, but I’ve seen monumental results playing some of my own Switch favorites on the new console – some of which Nintendo itself hasn’t even officially mentioned.
There are some downsides worth talking about, of course. For one, battery life is sorely lacking in handheld mode and feels like an abject downgrade compared to the original Switch models. I also clocked some very noticeable audio delay with multiple gaming headsets and earbuds via Bluetooth connection. Furthermore, the skeleton of the original Switch is still present in many ways, with an almost identical Home dashboard, a lack of customization, and the ongoing threat of drift prevailing in the new Joy-Con 2 controllers.
Still, the Switch 2 is an accomplished bit of kit, and one that provides a night and day upgrade over its eight-year-old predecessor. I’m definitely looking forward to its game library expanding, as well as the system itself receiving various quality-of-life upgrades via future firmware updates.
The Nintendo Switch 2 went on sale on June 5, 2025. The console by itself costs $449.99 / £395.99 / AU$699.95. There is also an official bundle that packs in a digital copy ofMarioKart Worldalongside the console for $499.99 / £429.99 / AU$769.95. Some US and UK retailers have also stocked their own bundles, often throwing in an extra pair of Joy-Con 2 controllers orNintendo Switch Onlinesubscription time, but you can expect to pay a premium for these.
Price-wise, though, the Nintendo Switch 2 (while certainly more expensive than its predecessor) falls about in line with similar contemporary handheld gaming devices, including the original Steam Deck ($399 / £349 / AU$649) and theAsus ROG Ally($549.99 / £449 / AU$999). Premium devices like theSteam Deck OLEDandROG Ally Xare even more expensive, positioning the Switch 2 at a relatively mid-range price point among gaming handhelds, but certainly on the more affordable side within the space.
In terms of home consoles, the Switch 2 does come in cheaper than the PS5 ($499.99 / £479.99 / AU$799.95) and lands in the same ballpark as the PS5 Digital Edition ($399.99 / £389.99 / AU$649.95). It’s also comparable in price to theXbox Series X Digital Edition($449.99 / £429.99 / AU$699).
It’s also worth noting that Nintendo Switch 2 stock has been an ongoing issue since the pre-order phase. At launch, it’s been incredibly difficult to purchase a Switch 2 at retail, and flashes of stock in all major regions come and go in an instant. However, this was also the case with the original Switch and competing systems like the PS5. In both cases, stock became much more plentiful in the months after launch, so I’m hoping the same is true for Nintendo’s latest.
2 x USB, 1 x HDMI, 1 x LAN, 2 x USB-C, 1 x 3.5mm headphone jack
Nintendo Switch 2: design and build quality
What’s most striking about the Nintendo Switch 2 out of the box is its look and build quality improvements over its predecessor. The console looks distinctly less toy-like, largely helped by an overall sleeker design and the ditching of the original Joy-Con’s neon red/blue aesthetic.
Some may lament the loss of whimsy, and that’s fair enough. But it nonetheless stands out amongst the busy gaming handheld crowd. The Switch 2, despite its increased size, remains impressively slim. In fact, it’s just as thin as the original Switch, and importantly, lacks the bulk of the likes of the Steam DeckOLEDand ROG Ally X. This means that even though it is bigger thanks to the larger display size, it remains an eminently portable console.
Though I would recommend investing in a carry case if you’re planning on taking your Switch 2 out and about. While it’s undoubtedly sturdier than the Switch, it’s still prone to the same environmental wear and tear of any handheld system.
The Switch 2 dock has also seen a size increase, but for good reason. This time, the dock houses an internal fan to help keep the unit cool during lengthy play sessions. Thankfully, the dock is still small enough to fit into even the most compact gaming spaces. Whether that be on a TV stand or your computer desk, or elsewhere, you should have little issue incorporating your Switch 2 into a docked setup. The dock also houses two USB ports, one ethernet port, and a HDMI slot for use on TVs or gaming monitors.
As for the handheld itself, there’s a lot to go over in terms of design. The unit now houses two USB-C ports – one on the top and the other at the bottom. Next to each port are sets of speakers. At the top, you’ll also find the power and volume buttons, as well as the game card slot, 3.5mm headphone jack, and a built-in microphone.
The Switch 2’s kickstand is a huge improvement. The 2017 model had a simple stub kickstand on one side, which felt extremely rigid. TheSwitch OLEDdid widen this design idea, but it wasn’t much better overall. On Switch 2, the kickstand has been entirely redesigned. It spans almost the entire length of the handheld and can be rotated to a much greater degree. This allows for greater freedom with how you place your Switch 2 on a surface for tabletop play.
Another massive improvement comes in how the Joy-Con 2 controllers attach to the handheld. Instead of the original Switch’s rigid rail system, the Switch 2 opts for a magnetic connection. As such, the Joy-Con 2 click into place seamlessly and instantaneously. You can also easily pop them back out by pushing in a button housed just underneath the ZL/ZR trigger buttons.
One last thing to note is that the Switch 2 is impressively lightweight. At just 1.18lbs (535g), it’s only marginally heavier than the original Switch, which was 0.88lbs (399g), and the Switch OLED’s 0.93lbs (422g). Admittedly, I was expecting something much heavier before my hands-on preview some months ago, but I remain pleasantly surprised by the Switch 2’s slimness. And when compared to the bulkier Steam Deck OLED’s 1.41lbs (640g), playing with Switch 2 in bed or on the go is less strenuous overall.
Nintendo Switch 2: display
I have no complaints when it comes to the Switch 2’s display. It is a monumental upgrade over the original’s 720p LCD screen.
Unlike the namesake screen of the Switch OLED, Nintendo has opted for an LCD display for the Switch 2. This may come across as a downgrade on paper, but in reality, the move back to LCD has its own advantages. For one, LCD is less prone to screen burn-in than OLED, allowing for a panel that should last longer.
Furthermore, Nintendo has still managed to ensure that your games still look crisp and vividly colorful during portable play. Nintendo describes its display as ‘Vivid LCD,’ and it’s an accurate description to say the least. The display supports HDR10, meaning games that support this screen tech (likeSuper Mario Odysseyand the upcomingMetroid Prime 4: Beyond) can be just as eye-poppingly colorful on the handheld as they would be on a larger OLED panel.
This 1080p screen also supports VRR (variable refresh rate), helping demanding games maintain a smooth framerate and helping 120Hz-compatible titles meet that target. At launch, there aren’t many games that benefit from the Switch 2 screen’s 120Hz capability, thoughMetroid Prime 4: Beyondis confirmed to have a 1080p performance mode that targets this high refresh rate. It’s bound to look stunning on the handheld that already has a native 1080p resolution.
Of course, there will be times when you won’t want to make use of HDR10, perhaps in order to save battery or to have a play experience that’s less demanding on the eyes. Nintendo has thankfully thought of this, and there are options in the settings menu to disableHDRentirely or to only enable it for true HDR-compatible games.
In my testing, I have no complaints when it comes to the Switch 2’s display. It is a monumental upgrade over the original’s 720p LCD screen. The jump to 1080p helps both Switch 2 and OG Switch games look incredibly sharp. Even titles that utilize a dynamic resolution in handheld mode – likeBayonetta 3andAstral Chain– are better able to meet this target thanks to the increased power of the Switch 2.
Nintendo Switch 2: user interface and settings
The Switch 2’s Home dashboard is a disappointment at first glance. In fact, you might not be able to tell it apart from the original console’s menu if it weren’t for the rounded edges applied to game icons on the Switch 2. It’s still aggressively bland, then, and you’ve still only got the choice between two basic white and black themes, but there have been some key improvements worth talking about.
The big thing to make note of is performance. Issues with the glacial input delay are practically nonexistent now, and nowhere is this more apparent than the revamped Nintendo eShop. There’s a completely new user interface here, and items are organized much more cleanly and smartly than before. And while, yes, you still won’t be escaping the mountains of genAI shovelware when looking through the deals section, I’d still argue that the eShop now is a good deal more responsive than even the PlayStation andMicrosoftStores.
Over to System Settings, then, and you’ll find much of what was available on the original Switch. On Switch 2, there are plenty more options to take advantage of the hardware’s new features. These include setting TV output to 1440p or 4K, fine-tuning HDR, as well as preventing your system from topping up its battery all the way to full in order to help the battery last longer in the years to come. A similar option is common with best iPhones and best Android smartphones, so it’s nice to see it here on a portable gaming device.
Nintendo Switch 2: audio
One important addition to the Nintendo Switch 2 is the implementation of a bespoke surround sound system, supported by the speakers on both the top and bottom of the handheld.
What impressed me the most here was the surprising level of audio quality when not using a pair of headphones in handheld mode. The speakers are significantly less tinny than the original Switch (though that did also see an improvement with the OLED model), and they provide surprisingly clear audio for such a compact device.
The speakers work great for a wide range of games, whether that’s the vast immersive soundscape ofTheLegend of Zelda: Tears of the Kingdomor the infectiously catchy tunes ofSplatoon 3.Even older NES and SNES games that are playable via Nintendo Switch Online benefit, with their simpler melodies coming through with great clarity.
Bluetooth support is where the Switch 2 falters in the audio department. Don’t get me wrong, you’re still getting strong surround sound support here. But with the gaming headsets and earbuds I tested – including theRIG 900 Max HSand theNothing Ear (a)earbuds – there was a very noticeable audio delay of around half a second. This was the case in both docked and handheld modes, though it was certainly more pronounced with the latter.
On that note, I’d recommend hooking up a pair of wired headphones via the 3.5mm jack. In this case, I tested myRazer BlackShark V2headphones, and audio came through crystal clear without a hint of delay.
Nintendo Switch 2: Performance
Now, overall gaming performance is where the Nintendo Switch 2 really impresses. At least at this early stage in the console’s life, the notion of poor framerates and heavily compromised Nintendo Switch ports seems to be a thing of the past.
Nintendo’s own output has thus far been stellar on this front.Mario Kart Worldruns at a clean 1440p while docked (1080p on the handheld) at a solid 60 frames per second (fps) at all times. That’s especially impressive given the series’ shift to a vibrant open world.
However, I was even more surprised by some of the console’s ports.Street Fighter 6,for example (while slightly worse off in terms of image quality with some noticeable graining), runs superbly at 60fps both online and offline. The marquee single-player World Tour mode does take some hits with battles being locked to 30fps, but that’s the only real blemish on this otherwise exceptional port.
The one major downside to all this is the Switch 2’s shockingly poor battery life. In handheld mode, Nintendo itself estimates that you can get anywhere between two to six and a half hours. However, in all my testing, I simply didn’t find this to be the case. Of course, more demanding titles will drain the battery a good deal more, but even with original Switch games, I struggled to get more than three hours at full charge. And yes, that’s even after bypassing the bug where the console thinks it’s got around 10% less battery life than what it actually has.
Even when playing less demanding titles, such as side-scrollers or Nintendo Switch Online (NSO) retro games, battery life struggles. You can, of course, mitigate things by turning down the console’s brightness and disabling HDR for certain games, but this does come at the cost of overall image clarity.
I’d say, at a push, you can get around five hours tops with less visually demanding games, after testing titles likeHollow Knight, Puyo Puyo Tetris 2S,and numerous Switch Online classic titles. Heck, even idling on the Home dashboard seems to drain the battery at an alarming clip, so do make sure to keep your console in standby when you’re out and about and it’s not in use.
Nintendo Switch 2: Backwards compatibility
Nintendo Switch 2’s backwards compatibility is – in a word – excellent. Particularly when it comes to running and playing original Switch games. Firstly, most Switch games at a baseline level benefit from Switch 2’s faster internal storage. That means you can expect games to boot and load scenes much faster on average.
For example, bootingXenoblade Chronicles X: Definitive Editiontook me from the Home dashboard to the in-game menu in around 4 seconds. Then, from the menu to in-game was roughly 10 seconds. It’s a similar story withSuper Smash Bros. Ultimate,which loads into a match in literally less than 3 seconds. Another standout example isHyrule Warriors: Definitive Edition,which I’ve already written about as being one of my favorite Switch 2 experiences so far, despite being an original Switch title. In the main story mode, the game transitioned from level selection to loading to gameplay in, again, around 3 or 4 seconds.
Many Switch games also benefit from an increase in image quality and overall performance, not just games that have received paid Nintendo Switch 2 Editions. The standout example here isPokémon Scarlet and Violet.Most would agree that the original Switch release was a mess, with horrific image quality and choppy animations. On Switch 2, the game has been transformed, rocking a solid 60fps and targeting 4K while docked and 1080p on the handheld. Now, the game’s overall art style still does feel a bit flat, but with its key performance issues solved on Switch 2, it’s now well worth playing, as it’s still a fine Pokémon adventure.
Another game that benefits is, again,Hyrule Warriors: Definitive Edition.That game originally had an uncapped framerate, meaning the Switch 2 is able to brute force a 60fps performance at all times. Image quality in handheld mode is also sublime, with the game sporting a 1080p output and no longer needing to downsample to 720p to fit the original Switch display. If you know of any other OG Switch titles with uncapped framerates, definitely give them a try on Switch 2, as the results may surprise you.
Nintendo Switch 2: Joy-Con 2
Now onto the Switch 2’s pack-in controllers – the Joy-Con 2. And again, we find a pretty sizable improvement over the previous model in some ways. Their overall design is much sleeker, and they’re slightly rounder than the original Joy-Con controllers. Their larger size also makes them much more comfortable to play with for longer sessions – even when sharing an individual Joy-Con 2 with a pal for co-op play.
The big addition here is mouse controls, which are supported by certain titles, includingCivilization 7andCyberpunk 2077.Mouse controls can also be used to navigate the Switch 2’s Home dashboard and Nintendo eShop (though the lack of a scroll wheel does hurt things a little here). It’s a very smart implementation, and performance is extremely smooth with no unnecessary acceleration. You can even adjust mouse sensitivity in the System Settings menu and in supported games.
It is worth mentioning that there have already been reports of Joy-Con 2 controllers suffering from stick drift, and the sticks themselves appear to have the same design as the originals.
This is a huge shame and a big disappointment, as one of my biggest concerns before launch was the lack of improvements in this regard. Nintendo does offer a free repair and replacement service for Joy-Con 2 controllers suffering from stick drift, but I’d obviously prefer a Hall effect solution in order to avoid this issue entirely.
Nintendo Switch 2: GameChat
Finally, Nintendo has a true party voice chat solution built into one of its consoles. While numerous titles on the original Switch supported voice chat via the official Nintendo Switch Online app, chatting with friends this way was nothing short of awful – often thanks to forced disconnections between matches and low-quality audio.
So, is GameChat a decent alternative to the likes of Discord? Well, yes and no. GameChat obviously takes great inspiration from the world’s leading group chat software. Audio quality via the Switch 2’s built-in mic is surprisingly clear, and headset microphones are also supported. It is objectively a big improvement over Nintendo’s prior efforts.
The problems come with its implementation. Namely, shrinking the game screen down in order to display your friends’ Switch 2 profile icons. This seems needless, especially when not using the Nintendo Switch 2 Camera accessory, not to mention the fact that GameChat adds massive black borders around your game screen. Discord already solved this with its simple and effective overlay that maintains image resolution while displaying profile icons off to the side in a semi-transparent manner.
GameChat isn’t lacking ambition, though, and there are some neat ideas here. For example, being able to see your friends’ game screens is a novel idea, and a neat way of translating split-screen play in an online space. The problem, again, is the execution of it. Your friends’ displays are rendered at an uncomfortably low framerate, to the point where it can actually be quite distracting.
I hope Nintendo continues to improve the GameChat service going forward and flesh it out with more customizable options, because it is a handy thing to have for party chat with friends online, and it does have some neat ideas of its own. But for now, I would still recommend setting up a chat with friends via Discord.
Should I buy the Nintendo Switch 2?
Buy it if…
You want a night and day upgrade over the original Switch Simply put, the Nintendo Switch 2 is the Switch’s vision fully realized. An astronomical performance improvement, paired with superb load times and a crisp 1080p display, arguably makes it the definitive gaming handheld.
You already have a decent-sized Switch game collection Your original Switch games play better than ever on Switch 2. While not all benefit from image quality and performance improvements, those that do have never been better. Plus, most games do benefit from the console’s snappier load times.
You want a handheld gaming device that’s genuinely portable While larger than the original Switch, it remains just as thin. If you’re put off by the bulk of the Steam Deck in particular, then the Switch 2 is an excellent portable alternative if you like to game while out and about.
Don’t buy it if…
You’re waiting on more first-party games Nintendo’s own launch roster for the Switch 2 is very slim. IfMario Kart Worldisn’t your bag, and you’re not too keen on playing some of these Switch 2 Edition games again, I’d say it’s best to hold off until the game library improves.
You want a gaming handheld that’ll go the distance, battery-wise The Switch 2’s battery life is incredibly poor. And while battery packs do exist to extend portable playtime, these do have the unfortunate side effect of bulking up the console. If you’re a frequent flyer or regularly find yourself on long commutes, the Switch 2’s battery life might let you down.
A few European countries are quietly changing how they do business: moving away from Microsoft software in favor of open-source alternatives. While there are plenty of individuals who’ve made the switch from Windows to Mac or Linux, ditching Microsoft software along the way, the tech giant has been a mainstay in many offices around the world for the better part of three decades. That’s why it’s so surprising some European countries have decided to upend the status quo and walk away from the decades-old standard. For many, it’s as much a political and strategic decision as it is a technical one.
Denmark is the most prominent example of the changes that are underway, with its Ministry of Digital Affairs set to phase out Windows and Office 365 by November 2025, replacing them with Linux and LibreOffice. The Ministry’s decision builds on earlier efforts by the country’s two largest cities, Copenhagen and Aarhus, which had already announced plans to limit their reliance on Microsoft software. If you’re wondering what’s behind the sudden shift, it’s a desire for digital sovereignty. Denmark and the other European countries making similar moves want to reduce their dependence on foreign tech firms.
These are the European governments ditching Microsoft
Denmark isn’t alone in its push to move away from Microsoft tools in the public sector. Shortly after Denmark revealed its decision to transition away from Microsoft products, Germany’s northern state of Schleswig‑Holstein said it would stop using Microsoft Teams, Word, Excel, Outlook, and eventually Windows in government offices. The transition to a Microsoft-free workplace is expected to affect around 30,000 public-sector employees, including civil servants, police, and judges, who will switch to Linux, LibreOffice, Open‑Xchange, Nextcloud, and Thunderbird. Schleswig‑Holstein’s Digitalization Minister Dirk Schroeder didn’t mince words when he told AFP, “We’re done with Teams!” He cited digital sovereignty and a desire to “take back control” of how the state’s data is stored and managed.
The debate over Microsoft 365 vs. Office 2024 might matter to individual users, but for many European governments, the bigger question is whether to use Microsoft software at all. France was one of the first countries to act on that question. In November 2022, the Ministry of National Education advised against the use of free versions of Microsoft 365 and Google Workspace in public schools. Officials cited concerns over compliance with the EU’s strict data privacy law, the General Data Protection Regulation (GDPR), and the risks posed by the U.S. Cloud Act, which requires U.S.-based companies to turn over data even if it’s stored abroad. Instead of enforcing a hard ban, officials urged schools to use on-premise or EU-hosted solutions that comply with European data-protection requirements.
While some regions, like Spain’s Valencia, made large-scale moves to LibreOffice as early as 2012, primarily to cut costs and avoid vendor lock-in, others have framed the shift more strategically. In 2015, Italy’s Ministry of Defence adopted LibreOffice and the Open Document Format (ODF) on over 100,000 systems as part of a long-term plan to ensure autonomy over public-sector data and document standards.
At first glance, these moves by European countries may seem like nothing more than a symbolic gesture or bureaucratic reshuffle. In reality, they reflect a deeper shift toward asserting control over digital infrastructure and reducing reliance on foreign tech giants. Many of the countries that have chosen to transition away from Microsoft software have been explicit: this transition is a powerful move towards establishing digital sovereignty. For many European countries, digital sovereignty means keeping critical infrastructure and data out of the hands of foreign tech firms.
Just like you should change some Google settings immediately if you’re worried about privacy, European governments have decided to perform a reset on their relationship with big tech, starting with how they manage software, data, and control. One of the biggest motivators is geopolitical independence. As Europe becomes concerned about its overexposure to U.S. tech companies, like Microsoft, Google, and Amazon, some countries have begun taking concrete steps toward limiting their reliance on U.S. providers. A side benefit is that by replacing Microsoft, European countries stand to save money through the elimination of recurring license fees.
According to some estimates, Germany’s Schleswig-Holstein state could see several million euros in savings over the next few years. While it’s still early, if more countries follow suit, it could disrupt the current global tech order and force companies like Microsoft to rethink how they work with public-sector clients outside the U.S.
There’s nothing quite like the excitement of a new console; feverishly whipping off the packaging, setting up your user account, and loading up your games to settle in for an hours-long induction to your new system.
Thrilling though the process may be, there’s a fundamental step all too often skipped: adjusting your settings. From Display and Audio settings to User, Lock, and software settings, there’s plenty to tweak in your Switch 2.
I’ve spent a week with the console, and there are some must-change settings you should adjust before getting started; here are my recommendations.
Nintendo’s latest console supportsHDR, and you can easily toggle this on and off within the settings. Simply head toSettings > Display > HDROutputand make sure this setting is on by default.
Don’t stop there, though, because there’s a second setting which allows you to choose which games it’s enabled for.Scroll downin the Display menu, and you’ll see (confusingly) anotherHDR Outputoption. Select this, and you can choose between ‘Always Enabled’, ‘Compatible Software Only’, and ‘Disabled’.
I’d recommend switching it on for compatible games instead of the default always-on setting to make sure non-compatible games look as good as ever.
If you’ve suffered from battery degradation on your first-generation Nintendo Switch, you’ll be delighted to know that the Switch 2 offers a setting that caps your battery life at around 90 percent while it’s on charge, which should help your battery long-term. Simply head to Settings > System > Stop Charging Around 90%.
You can easily toggle this on and off any time, so if you want a full charge every now and then for a long day of gaming in handheld mode, it’s just a matter of a quick trip to the settings. Alternatively, you can simply outsource the load and try aportable battery for your Nintendo Switch 2.
3. TV resolution
Gamers, rejoice – the Nintendo Switch 2 can support screen resolutions up to4K, albeit at a 60Hz refresh rate and 60fps for most titles, but you might have different ideas for your new console. Again, head toSettings > Display > TV Resolution.
Within the settings, you can toggle automatic resolution detection or manually set the resolution for your TV, especially handy if you would prefer the higher refresh rates available in 1440p or 1080p resolutions.
4. Change your lock settings
Depending on who else will be using your Switch, you may want to change your Lock Screen settings with the system lock menu.
Head toSettings > User, where you can select toSkip Selection Screenif you’re the only one using the console regularly. Alertanitlvey, head toSettings > System > Console Lock. Here, you can set a PIN to keep prying eyes and grubby hands off your new console, but you can also opt toadd parental controls using the dedicated Nintendo Switch Parental Controls app.
5. Activate Dark Mode
Sure, this one is a preference-based tip, but personally, I don’t see why you’d prefer to use the standard white theme over dark. Especially if you play mostly in handheld, it’s a great way to conserve power and give your eyes some rest.
Once again, navigate toSettings > Themesand select between Basic White and Basic Black.
This year’s strongest premium headphones battle it out for supremacy
Sony WH-1000XM6
The Sony WH-1000XM6 are a fantastic pair of over-ear headphones that combine the best design elements of their predecessors, while leveling up their sonic and ANC capabilities. With super-clean touch controls, an ultra-comfy fit and a ton of features, there’s a lot to love about these headphones, even if they do come at quite the cost.
The Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3 are impressive in pretty much every aspect. They have a strong feature-set that’s expanding via updates, excellent build quality, but most of all, some of the best sound you can get from any headphones at this price, while still delivering very good ANC.
Pros
Open, balanced, and entertaining sound
Phenomenal build quality
More features coming in update
Cons
Sony’s active noise cancellation is better
On-ear controls aren’t as smart as Sony
Not fully foldable, so less portable than Sony
TheSonyWH-1000XM6 and Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3 are easily among thebest headphoneswe’ve seen come out in 2025. If you’re looking to buy a pair of thebest noise cancelling headphonesaround, both models should certainly be up for consideration, with each offering excellent features, audio performance and build quality.
If you’re a little unsure on which model is right for you, it’s your lucky day! I’m here to break down the absolute best and worst (spoiler, there’s barely any of that) aspects of these headphones, to help you make the best possible choice.
TheBowers & Wilkins Px7 S3got an incredible five-star review from us, thanks primarily to their jaw-dropping sound-for-pound quality. But we adored theSony WH-1000XM6too for their best-in-class ANC and upgraded design. I’ve tested both models side by side for weeks on end, and I’ve learnt a lot about their capabilities, so we’ll take a look at what precisely sets them apart. Let the battle begin!
Sony WH-1000XM6 vs Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3: price and availability
The Sony WH-1000XM6 launched in May 2025, just a few weeks after the release of the Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3. Sony’s new cans cost $449 / £399 / AU$699, which is by no means cheap.
But what do you know, the Px7 S3 cost the exact same amount as the Sony cans in each territory – though we have seen them on sale in the UK at one stage for just under £370. Both models, it’s fair to say, are comfortably in the premium tier as far as wireless headphones are concerned.
Each model comes in three different color options: Black, Midnight Blue, or Platinum Silver for the Sony WH-1000XM6; and Anthracite Black, Canvas White or Indigo Blue for the Px7 S3. For reference, I’ve been using the Platinum Silver and Canvas White options in my testing.
Sony WH-1000XM6 vs Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3: features
Both the XM6 and Px7 S3 are packed with the standard features you’d want from a pair of modern headphones – think fast-pairing, multi-point connectivity, wear detection and, of course, active noise cancellation. But there’s something of a chasm in terms of the amount offered by each rival.
Let’s start with Sony, which, for me, is supplying one of the most complete, detail-oriented user experiences on the market right now through the Sound Connect app. There are some awesome options such as scene-based listening, Cinema and Background Music modes for creating spatial audio from stereo sound, head-gesture monitoring (for accepting or rejecting calls), and Bluetooth Auracast.
The real standout, though, is the noise cancelling. If you haven’t already seen me rave about this elsewhere, I’ll be clear – the WH-1000XM6 are the king of ANC right now. None of the rivals I’ve tried – not even theBose QuietComfort Ultra Headphones– can top Sony’s flagships when it comes to crushing external noise. That’s because the XM6 harness the power of 12 microphones and fine-tune them in real time to enable a distraction-free listening experience.
Whether I’m traveling on public transport, walking near a busy road or working in a chatter-filled office I’m always treated to silence, or at least, near-silence. Honestly, it’s made it hard to go back to any other headphones.
Now, the Px7 S3aregood when it comes to noise cancelling – definitely an improvement over their predecessors. That’s thanks to a new ANC platform, which Bowers apparently built from scratch. It uses a total of eight mics to monitor the output of the drivers as well as outside noise in an effort to serve up its best-ever ANC.
And it works well, dulling almost all sounds effectively. But I just don’t get that same level of silence that the XM6 induce – the hum of a train sounded more prominent when using the Px7 S3 and traffic noise seeped through a little more.
Still, the Px7 do put forward a good passthrough ‘transparency’ mode, which enables you to be a bit more aware of your surroundings if, say, you’re walking in a super built-up area. Sony’s passthrough mode is a little more developed – you can adjust the level of noise that sneaks in with a slider and trigger it with a Speak to Chat option, or by covering the right earcup with your hand.
One final note on noise cancelling, though: both of these models are fantastic at maintaining excellent audio quality, even with ANC on. So regardless of which headphones you opt for, have no fear – you can still get a top-tier listening experience while shutting out your surroundings.
The only point of distraction Isometimesencountered was wind noise, which could be fairly prominent when using the Px7 S3, but wasn’t all too much of an issue with the XM6.
An area that Sony does considerably better in, though, is EQ adjustment. There’s a Find Your Equalizer mode, which creates a sound profile based on your personal taste; a 10-band custom EQ calibrator and some presets too. Meanwhile, the Px7 S3 offer a five band custom equalizer. I should say, though, that they already sounded incredible out of the box.
One area where there’s little-to-no difference, though, is battery life. Both sets of headphones go for 30 hours with ANC on. That’s… all right. There are competitors, such as theSennheiser Momentum 4 WirelessorCambridge Audio P100that can double that – but both the Sony and B&W cans can be charged while in-use, so it should be easy to avoid running out of juice, even if you’re on the move.
Both also harness their microphone systems to plate up great call quality, though the Sony cans are superior here. A combination of beamforming mics and AI sound processing ensure your voice is lifted away from pesky background noises, making foractuallycrystal-clear calling.
So yes, the Px7 S3 have a lot of nice features to mess around with and more coming. They’ve also made some substantial improvements in the way of noise cancelling and call quality. But the WH-1000XM6 are simply ahead of the competition. You can’t do better features-wise right now, and that’s why they take the edge for me.
Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3
Sony WH-1000XM6 vs Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3: sound quality
As you’d likely expect, both the Sony WH-1000XM6 and the Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3 plate up excellent audio quality, making significant improvements over their respective predecessors.
The WH-1000XM6 deliver brilliantly clear, detailed audio, right across the frequency range. There’s a more balanced sound out of the box than I heard with both the Sony WH-1000XM5 and Sony WH-1000XM4, in part thanks to input from world-renowned mastering engineers throughout the headphones’ development process.
When tuning into tracks such asMole Moves Houseby Count Basic, I was struck by the tonal accuracy and rhythmic precision of each element, with smooth bass, gliding guitar and funky percussion coming through cleanly and cohesively.
The ability of the XM6 to separate out each instrumental element is pretty solid too – no matter the genre, I was never subjected to a bloated, busy interpretation of my favorite tunes.
When I spoke to some of Sony’s sound team at the XM6’s unveiling, they highlighted increased width as one of the largest changes, sonically speaking, over previous models. And don’t get me wrong, that’s definitely noticeable – I mean, there’s even a Cinema mode that upmixes a stereo signal into a more immersive format when you’re watching movies on the go.
But still, I can’t help but feel that the Px7 S3 offereven betterwidth and immersive audio.
From the very moment I placed the Bowers cans on my head and fired up Tidal, I was struck by one thing above all: an open, almost spatial property to audio, which really sucked me into the music.
And despite the phenomenal levels of width and depth they provide – which unlocks a ton of breathing space for each individual instrument to operate – there’s an undeniably stronger coherence to their presentation.
I should mention, too, that the Px7 S3 are set to get a spatial audio upgrade at a later stage, which will be accessible via the Bowers & Wilkins Music app. Sony has some spatial and head-tracking options for the XM6, but these only work on certain devices that support Android’s built-in head tracking, which doesn’t include thebest Samsung phones(and obviously rules outAppledevices).
One thing the Px7 S3 are a little more adept at than the Sony’s is the ability to almost air-lift vocal performances out of the mix, push them forward, and allow you to enjoy them in all of their glory. When tuning intoRains againby Solji, which has a real focus on higher-pitched, showstopping singing, I was gripped by the prominent positioning of vocals, which were incredibly crisp and expressive, making for a truly luxury listen.
I want to be clear – the XM6 also perform fantastically well. They just, perhaps, lack the openness of the Px7 S3. Both sets of headphones can reveal a huge degree of intricacies – in part, thanks to the inclusion of LDAC on the XM6 and aptX adaptive or aptX lossless on the Px7 S3.
All in all, these two rivals are wonderfully talented in their own right – but there can only be one winner. And in this case, I have to hand it to the Px7 S3. They may not have quite as many EQ options as the XM6, but that doesn’t matter. They sound fantastic out of the box and I was utterly hypnotized by their sound signature.
Sony WH-1000XM6 vs Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3: design
I barely have a bad word to say about either of these headphones, especially when it comes to design. Both of these have stunning looks, high build quality and great carry cases, meaning that you can see and feel the luxury nature of your premium purchase.
The WH-1000XM6 have borrowed the aesthetic of their predecessor, the XM5, with a sleek frame and a nice amount of padding on the headband and earcups for comfortable multi-hour listening sessions. They have a slightly wider headband than older Sony models for enhanced comfort and I can easily keep them on for hours on end without feeling irritated.
I’d argue that the earcups do looka littlechunky when wearing the headphones, and the carry case – though conveniently magnetic – is ever so slightly bigger than other ones I’ve used.
Meanwhile, the Px7 S3 are even better looking, for me. They have fabric details on the headband as well as the earcups, as well as neat metallic details and generous padding for high comfort. I did initially feel that they were a little tight on my head, but after a few days of listening, they soon adjusted to my liking.
The Px7 S3 opt for a zip-up case, which isn’t as quick and easy to use as the XM6 alternative. But I can’t deny the case’s classy, understated looks, which totally won me over. Again, its not the tiniest case on the market, but there’s a reason for that – these aren’t fully foldable. That’s not ideal if you need compact cans that you can throw in a small bag on the go.
The XM6, of course,arefoldable, but use stronger hinges than their ancestor, the XM4 – or the XM5, come to that, which weren’t foldable but had their own hinge issues.
Another thing the Px7 skip out on is touch controls. Now, for some, this may be a blessing. I’ve encountered some people that find touch controls in general to be finicky, unreliable, or too easy to trigger when you’re just adjusting your cans. These instead opt for traditional button controls, which areeasy-to-use.
But in honesty, I’d urge touch control haters to give the XM6 a go. They supply the most consistent, intuitive controls I’ve ever tried on any headphones. You can swipe and hold to adjust volume, flick sideways to skip and play tracks, tap twice – rather than once – to play/pause and even cover the right earcup to trigger passthrough mode. I’ve had no issues whatsoever with the XM6’s touch controls, and I much prefer using them to the more old-school approach of the Px7 S3’s physical buttons.
A couple of things before we move on. Neither of these models has any kind of waterproofing – something that’s very much commonplace for thebest over-ear headphones, though I’m hoping future evolutions will bring some kind of water resistance to the table.
Both have 3.5mm headphone ports, though, meaning you can indulge in wired listening if you’d prefer. However, only the B&W Px7 S3 can take USB-C lossless Hi-Res Audio over this input.
Overall, I prefer the look and feel of the Px7 S3. Yet I can’t help but find the XM6 to be more practical and pleasing to use, thanks to their foldability and future-facing touch controls. For that reason, I think we’ll call this round a tie.
Sony WH-1000XM6 vs Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3: value
Despite both of these models coming at, let’s face it, a pretty steep price, I still feel as if they each pack a great amount of bang for your buck.
The WH-1000XM6 are some of the most feature-rich headphones on the market, boasting class-leading noise cancelling, intelligent touch controls, amazing call quality and, of course, upgraded sound. I think, as a pair of all-rounders, they’re arguably the best that money can buy right now.
And as for the Px7 S3, I’m really not sure you could find better sound quality from any other over-ears in this price range. Their open, yet cohesive sound signature is intoxicating, and that’s the true draw here. Because yes, I’d argue the XM6 have superior features and portability. But they can’t quite beat Bowers for pure audio talents.
So I think it’ll come down to what your priority is. If it’s sound quality first, and you’re happy for other features to be very good but not quite best-in-class, then go Bowers. If you want all-rounders with the best ANC you can get, so Sony.
Yes, $450 / £400 / AU$700 is a lot of money to spend on some new headphones. But for the price you pay, you’re getting headphones that are leading the pack in some really crucial areas. Whichever pair you pick, I’m almost certain you’ll love what you see, feel and most importantly, hear.
Sony WH-1000XM6 vs Bowers & Wilkins Px7 S3: verdict
Our battle has reached a truly epic conclusion. As you can see, there’s little to separate these two models overall. And that adds up, because if I learnt one thing from testing the WH-1000XM6 and Px7 S3 side by side, its that they’re both top-tier headphones…but meant for two different kinds of buyer.
If you want all the modern features, great sound quality, top-tier noise cancellation and a highly compact design, then I’d recommend the XM6 all day long. As I mentioned above, they’re an S-tier option if you’re seeking out a true all-rounder.
But if you’re willing to sacrifice a few features and the best sound cancelling in the game for the best sound available, then the Px7 S3 are right for you. I absolutely adore the almost spatial-sounding approach these headphones take – their immersive, well-separated audio just keeps me coming back for more and more.
Windows Hello Face is slightly worse off, though savvy users have found a workaround
Windows Hello has seen a minor downgrade this week, as the servicenow requiresthe use of a color camera in tandem with IR sensors to sign users in. While the update was announced back in April, users are only now seeing the fruits of the update, with Windows Hello no longer functioning in the dark.
Facial recognition through Windows Hello has used IR sensors to save a 3D scan of a user’s face, without the need for visual confirmation through a webcam, for years. This allowed users to sign in with Windows Hello Face recognition in the dark, just as Apple’s Face ID sign-in works. But the new change, made in response to a”spoofing vulnerability”found in April, makes the login service both more secure and more inconvenient.
The change has seen varying responses in reporting so far. Some reports fromWindows Centraland elsewhere online confirm the Windows Hello login no longer functions in the dark, whereasPCWorldreports the reflection of light coming from a laptop screen was enough to give the webcam something to work with.
There is some heightened concern for those users with darker skin tones. Darker faces can be harder for cameras to resolve in low light, perhaps making Hello’s functionality in the dark even worse for people of color. Just as motion-activated faucets and other tools can fail to see non-white hands in some situations, Windows Hello may prove worse in the dark for those whose faces reflect less light.
There does exist a workaround to bypass the new webcam requirements for Windows Hello. Users can use Windows Device Manager to disable their color webcam, at which point Windows Hello will still function using only the IR sensors.
Of course, disabling your webcam means that you will no longer have a working camera, so the usefulness of this workaround exchanges the problem of “no Windows Hello in the dark” for “no camera in meetings”, a swap few people would be willing to make.
And of course, quick Windows Hello sign-in is possible in many ways beyond webcam facial recognition. PIN, password, and fingerprint login options all already exist for PC users without built-in Windows Hello-compatible webcam/sensor solutions, and those worried about not being able to log in in the dark would be best served by swapping their login option to another, more accessible mode.