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Tim Cook just teased that something’s in the AIR this week
It’s not an event invite, but rather a video teaser for something new
If rumors are right, we could see a new MacBook Air with M4 or a new iPad
Hot off the heels of fresh rumors about a MacBook Air refresh with the latest, super-speedy M4 chip,AppleCEOTim Cookis teasing that there is something in the ‘AIR’ this week. It’s likely a very smart choice of words, but this all but confirms that there is at least an Apple launch on the horizon.
As with the tease for what turned out to be theiPhone 16e, Tim Cook took to X (formerly Twitter), writing “This week.” and then a six-second teaser video. While it doesn’t show any product, it flashes one word individually at a time, writing out: There’s something in the AIR. And that points to two of Apple’s products – the 13-inch and 15-inch MacBook Air and the iPad Air.
Hinting at speed is the fact that something slides through the word Air, causing a ripple effect. That could be a new MacBook Air or an iPad Air, likely with some improved performance courtesy of Apple Silicon.
The teaser, which was posted at 10:54AM ET on March 3, 2025, comes a day afterBloomberg’s Mark Gurman sharedthat Apple’s planned refresh for the MacBook Air with the M4 chip could come as soon as this week.
Apple initially launched the M4 chip in May of 2024 with the iPad Pro and then brought it to theiMac,Mac mini, and MacBook Pro (14-inch and 16-inch) in October of 2024. So you could say it’s about time to arrive in Apple’s most popular and portable laptop, the MacBook Air.
We’re not expecting a wildly different design with the new MacBook Air, but the M4 chip could speed up tasks thanks to an improved CPU and GPU, and it could also be better at Apple Intelligence thanks to bigger leaps with the Neural Engine. It should also help stretch the battery life even further.
Tim Cook also chose an important set of words that have some history at Apple. You might recall that before Steve Jobs pulled the original MacBook Air out of the manila envelope, the event was teased with the sub-line, “2008 There’s something in the air.” This time around, there is extra emphasis on theAIR.
Considering thatthis tease from Apple doesn’t specify one new additionto the family, we could be getting more than one new product from the Cupertino-based tech giant.
According to recent reports, Apple is also preparing anupgraded iPad Air and a new entry-level iPad, likely the 12th gen. Apple refreshed the iPad Air, bringing down Face ID and a design that was more similar to the iPad Pro in May of 2024, but it could be improving performance by either the M3 or M4 chip, as well as new accessories.
Regarding the base entry-level iPad, it should also see a speed improvement, but rumors suggest that will be about it. In the same report as the MacBook Air, Bloomberg noted that the iPad launches could be further out.
We’ll know more soon, though, as Apple says the news will be made this week. Of course, stick with TechRadar for the latest as we break down whatever Apple has in store. In the meantime, I’m asking Siri to play a Phil Collins classic –In The Air Tonight.
The launch will also accompany the addition of Horizon Realms, and bring better graphics modes beyond what’s possible on Xbox Series X.
About a month ago, we learned that the once unthinkable would soon be a reality—a Forzagame was finally headed to PlayStation, and quickly. Slated for this spring, Forza Horizon 5has now been given an official release date of April 29.
As usual these days, that’s just the launch day for the normie standard release; fork over $100 for the Premium edition and you can play the game four days earlier, on April 25. Premium buyers also receive both the Hot Wheels and Rally Adventure expansions, the car pass, and VIP access that tosses in perks like double race payouts and weekly Super Wheelspins that award random prizes.
I playedFH5when it launched for Xbox and PC four years ago, and if you ask me, this game is actually best experienced bynotpaying for all the goodies. Players are rewarded so often and easily inHorizonthat being bombarded with free stuff for doing literally anything kind of devalues the whole exercise. That said, the two expansions there are comprehensive, and unique enough from the main game in their own right that they’re worth exploring once you’ve seen everything else.
Otherwise, FH5landing on PS5 brings with it the Horizon Realms feature. Playground Games describes it as “a curated collection of some of the community’s favorite previously released Evolving Worlds,” which is a definition that certainly assumes some working knowledge of what “Worlds” are in this game. Far as I can tell watching the trailer below, these are limited-time zones with unique themes, from beach-style fare to a winter wonderland, to something that looks pulled out of Tron, and some (but not all) are housed within the map’s soccer stadium. There are 12 in all. You’ll have to forgive me for not being up to speed here—I haven’t touched this game in at least two years, which may as well be a lifetime in the Forza Horizon universe.
What Idounderstand and would be excited to check out are some of the newer cars added in, like theHyundai Vision N 74and an honest-to-god Nissan Pike Factory Car Pack. No, really—the Pao,Figaro, Be-1, and Scargo are all coming toFH5, something even we boomers can appreciate.
Alongside the launch date, theForzateam has also announced how graphics mode will play out on PS5. For the base console, there will be the same choice between a 60 frame-per-second Performance mode and 30 fps Quality mode, just like on Xbox Series X. Naturally, the PS5 Pro will take both experiences further; the Performance mode will offer “increased visual fidelity”—possibly an improved base rendering resolution and higher settings across the board—while the Quality mode will stay at 30 fps but add “ray-traced car reflections to races and free roam.” Raytracing is already possible on consoles when viewing cars in the dealer and the player’s garage, which is why that part is worded so specifically for PS5 Pro.
The process includes injecting fresh lithium into batteries to give them a prolonged life
(Image credit: Anu Adamson, Dalhousie University, Halifax)
Researchers from Fudan University in China have developed a method to refresh and extend the lifespan of lithium batteries, a breakthrough that could improve battery sustainability and reduce electronic waste. The findings, recentlypublished at Nature, are based on a technique that rejuvenates degraded lithium-ion cells, potentially increasing their usability for long periods.
As we know, lithium-ion batteries power everything from smartphones and laptops to electric vehicles, but their efficiency declines over time due to electrode degradation and chemical side reactions. The research led by Peng Huisheng and Gao Yue from Fudan University, along with other collaborating Chinese research institutions, began by identifying and synthesizing a lithium carrier molecule – lithium trifluoromethanesulfinate (LiSO₂CF₃). The researchers described the white powdered functional salt as a “precise-treatment medicine for lithium-ion batteries.”
Over time, lithium-ion batteries lose efficiency as lithium becomes trapped in inactive compounds and electrode materials degrade. The new method involves introducing an electrolyte solution containing dissolved LiSO₂CF₃ into a degraded battery. When a voltage is applied, the compound breaks down, releasing lithium ions that reintegrate into the electrode material, effectively restoring lost capacity.
Simultaneously, the breakdown process generates gaseous byproducts, including sulfur dioxide (SO₂), trifluoromethane (HCF₃), and hexafluoroethane (C₂F₆), which naturally escape from the electrolyte if the battery is designed to allow venting.
Extending lifespan from 1,500 to 12,000 charge cycles
Once the lithium restoration is complete, the battery is sealed and tested to confirm its performance. Early experiments have shown that lithium-iron phosphate batteries treated with this method can regain nearly all of their lost capacity, extending their lifespan up to 12,000 charge cycles. For comparison, a typical electric car battery has a lifespan of around 1,500 charge cycles.
According to Gao Yue, “The battery only lost 4% of its performance after 11,818 cycles. For an EV that charges twice a day, this means the battery could last up to 18 years. In comparison, current EV batteries usually lose 30% of their performance in just 2.7 years with the same charging routine.”
However, practical implementation requires that batteries be designed with electrolyte replenishment and gas venting in mind, which may limit the new technology’s feasibility for widely used consumer electronics. While still in the experimental stage, this process presents a promising approach to reducing battery waste and increasing the longevity of rechargeable lithium-ion cells, particularly in large-scale energy storage systems.
The breakthrough not only has the potential to extend battery lifespans and reduce e-waste, but it can also lower the environmental impact of lithium mining. More testing and regulatory approvals will be needed before this method can be implemented widely, but it seems to be a promising step toward a more sustainable battery industry.
YouriPhoneis essentially a pocket computer and it’ll end up being packed with files whether they’re photos, documents, audio, video and more. At some point, you may want to transfer some of those files to your Mac.
While you could use clunky methods like emailing files to yourself or sending them through Messages, there are some slicker solutions, as we’re about to see. One of these is a more recent addition: the ability tomirror your iPhonein a window on your Mac.
If you’ve tried it, you’ll know just how effective it can be. What’s more, withiOS 18.2,Apple has made connecting your iPhone to a Mac even easier by introducing a new way to trust an unknown computer. So, let’s take a look at how to transfer files from an iPhone to a Mac.
How to transfer files from an iPhone to Mac using iPhone mirroring
Using iPhone Mirroring makes it easy to transfer files.
1. Connect your iPhone
Launch the iPhone Mirroring appon your Mac andfollow the promptsboth on your Mac and iPhone as required.
2. Transfer files
Use your mouse or trackpad and keyboard to navigate the iPhoneon your Mac’s screen andfind a file— perhaps in the Files app. Simplydrag that filefrom the iPhone window to your Mac.
How to transfer files from an iPhone to Mac using AirDrop
Another easy way to transfer files is to use AirDrop
1. Find a file
Identify a fileon your iPhone that you want to transfer to your Mac andtap the share icon.
It could be an image in the Photos app (open an imageandtap the Share icon) or a file in the Files app (tap the three-dot menunext to a file andselect Send a Copy).
In short, if you’re able to share something, AirDrop is likely to be available.
You will see an AirDrop icon.Tap AirDropand you’ll be able to select nearby devices — one of which will hopefully be your Mac.
If you cannot see your Mac listed, then take a look athow to use AirDrop on Macand make sure it’s discoverable.
How to transfer files from an iPhone to Mac using iCloud
If you have iCloud active on your iPhone and Mac, then any files saved on your iPhone will be automatically available on your Mac.
1. Set up iCloud on an iPhone
Go to Settingsandtap your name. If it isn’t there,tap Apple Accountandsign in. Thentap iCloudandselect the itemsyou want to store there.
2. Set up iCloud on Mac
Now on your Mac,select the Apple Menuandchoose System Settings. Be sure the Apple Account is the same one you set up on your iPhone andclick iCloud.
Decide which features you want to sync andclick Done. If they marry up with those selected on the iPhone, the files will automatically be made available across both devices.
How to physically transfer files from an iPhone to Mac
The third way is to use something physical —either a cable or an external storage drive.
When using a cable, plug the charging cable into your phone and plug the other end into your Mac.
1. Launch Finder
When you do this, you canlaunch Finderandselect your iPhonefrom the sidebar.
2. View your files
Select Filesand you will have access to the files on your iPhone.
If using an external driver, it might be beneficial to check out thehow to use an external storage device with your iPhone.
Once files are saved to that drive, you canunplug it,connect it to your Mac, thenlaunch Finderandselect the drive from the sidebarto access them.
And there you go! You now know how to transfer files from an iPhone to Mac. But there’s more. For Windows PC and Mac users, check outhow to transfer photos from an iPhone to a computer. And it’s worth knowinghow to copy and paste images between your Apple devices with Universal Clipboard, andhow to transfer Google Photos to PC or Mac.
Master the challenges of coastal locations at low tide with a careful approach to composition
What you’ll need
– Wide-angle zoom lens
– Low-level camera support
– Polariser (optional)
Harbors and marinas are great places to explore with a camera and offer a tremendous range of detail on which we can focus. It’s possible to find subjects for both close-up shots and wide vistas, allowing us to capture the many facets of this fascinating environment.
However, as with all coastal locations, harbors are subject to extreme tidal changes in water level and, unfortunately, it isn’t always possible to be on location at the ideal time of the tidal cycle – when water is rushing in or out of the harbor, drawing attractive lines around the boats and rocks.
During low tide, you’ll often find that the boats are resting on sand and the retreating water has revealed a jumble of rocks, seaweed, barnacles and other debris on the seabed, which doesn’t often make for the most photogenic of foregrounds.
Also, when dry, sand absorbs a lot of light rather than reflecting it, which can make colours appear dull and muted within the frame. This can all add up to produce a boring middle ground in our landscape shots, so we must work to control the relative proportions of all areas of the frame. Let’s explore the best ways to reduce unsightly parts of the scene through careful composition and creative use of exposure.
The key aspect to the success of this technique is to hide areas of the scene that you don’t want the viewer to see. Get the camera as low as possible to hide the dry middle ground. We used our camera bag, rather than a tripod, for the lowest position.
As the camera is close to foreground elements, the depth of field is greatly reduced, so choose an aperture setting of at least f/11. For this scene, f/16 was needed to get both the foreground rocks and the distant castle sharp. Magnify the preview to check this.
3. Crop the foreground
At 24mm on our full-frame camera, there is a little too much foreground. Zoom in to balance the weight of each area of the scene and reduce the middle ground further, keeping an eye on the depth of field as you change the focal length.
4. Focus the scene
Double-distance and hyperfocal focusing aren’t always reliable when objects are located at greatly different distances. We used a hyperfocal distance app for the focus values at our focal length and f/stop, then performed visual micro-adjustments.
5. Wait for the light
With the camera set, wait for a break in the clouds. The harsher summer evening light has some drawbacks, but one advantage is dramatic spotlighting. We took a frame as a cloud moved across the sun, breaking up the lighting structure a little.
6. Underexpose
We used negative 1EV exposure compensation to darken the shadows a little. While harsh shadows are generally avoided in landscape photography, underexposing dull, non-reflective areas can draw attention away from boring middlegrounds.
Pro tip
Try shooting vertically
If the composition isn’t working, try making the foreground a major feature of your landscape scene
Your options to minimise dull middle grounds and foregrounds include pitching the camera up and exaggerating the sky or going all-in on the foreground. Where there is a good amount of detail to focus on close to the camera, try shooting in portrait orientation to capture texture in the rockpools that are often left once the tide has gone out. Use a polariser to cut through reflections and see the detail at the bottom of pools.
Editing steps
1. Balance the range
After setting the Black and White points, manage the distribution of shadows and highlights. In an image with darker rocks in the foreground, these will block up quickly. By waiting for the sunlight to hit them, only a small Shadows increase is needed.
2. Control colour luminance
After making a Curves adjustment to darken the mid tones, we also increased the Luminance of the Greens and Yellows in HSL to prevent the green seaweed from being dulled, too. We then darkened the Blues to deepen the sky contrast.
3. Dodge and Burn
To enhance the pools of light we waited for on the shoot, we used the Adjustment Brush inLightroom(K) with -0.50 Exposure to burn the soft shadows cast by the clouds. We then applied a Dodge to highlight areas with positive +0.40 Exposure.
4. Tone the highlights
The late afternoon sunlight is a little cool, so we applied some Color Grading by adding a Yellow tone to the Highlights and light Magenta to the Midtones for a natural colour depth. Adjust the Balance to ensure that fresh greens don’t turn yellow.
5. Adjust colour calibration
We used the Calibration Tab to adjust the Hue and Saturation of the Green Primary and also adjusted the other colour options to create a saturated but natural colour balance. The final colour step was to reduce the global Saturation by -2.
6. Selective Sharpening
Setting the aperture to f/16 produced sufficient DOF, but diffraction has lowered critical sharpness, especially in the foreground detail. Use the Adjustment Brush or the Sharpen Brush to extract extra texture in the rocks and vegetation.
Before/After
Lack of contrast This scene has a range of detail in the shadows thanks to the lighting from behind the camera but the colours lack depth
Final shot This image has a better structure, with less dead middle ground. The edit enhanced the colours and texture in the foreground
Okay… exactly what is ISO in photography? This is what it stands for, what the numbers mean and when you should change them
It may be a simple question: what is ISO in photography? However, the answer isn’t quite so straightforward – mainly because it’s a term that originated before digital imaging.
So, let’s rewind: what is ISO in photography in terms of analog shooting?Camera filmcomes in different speeds, with a higher ISO rating equating to a ‘faster’ film – which means it is more sensitive to light, enabling you to use faster shutter speeds than you can with ‘slower’ film.
Using a higher-sensitivity ISO is useful for moving subjects (where faster shutter speeds are required) and particularly for shooting in low light. Thus, ISO forms one corner of theexposure triangle– along withapertureandshutter speed.
Okay, but how is this speed measured? A number of different scales were introduced when film was invented, and two of the best known – the American ASA and German DIN scales – were ultimately brought together to create the standardized ISO system.
Thebest digital cameras, of course, do not use film – but the same ISO scale is still used today to measure the camera’s sensitivity to light. Although the camera’s image sensor cannot be changed the way film can, its sensitivity can be boosted by the camera’s circuitry. This is done with theISO control.
What is ISO in photography? It’s like turning up the volume dial on an old radio when the signal is weak – and the higher you go, the more distortion or noise you get
What does ISO stand for?
So, we’ve answered “what is ISO in photography”. Butwhat does ISO stand for? ISO is the name of the International Organization of Standardization: a body that creates thousands of agreed standards for a huge range of products, procedures, and practices. ISO isn’t an acronym and doesn’t stand for anything – it simply refers to the Organization.
For the photographer, ISO is simply a set of numbers. The base sensitivity – the lowest native setting – of many digital cameras is ISO100. But is typically increased by pressing the appropriate button, rotating a dial, swiping the touchscreen or changing a menu setting. On some cameras, you may even get a separate ISO control dial.
The scale is such that doubling the ISO number doubles the sensitivity of the sensor. So increasing the ISO setting from 100 to 200 means that, to get the same overall exposure, you can use a shutter speed that is half as long (or twice as fast).
Each doubling of the ISO also increases the sensitivity by a full exposure ‘stop’ – with the typical full-stop ISO scale progressing to 100, 200, 400, 800, 1600 and so on. The top ISO setting varies depending on the age and cost of your camera. Typical maximum settings range from ISO3200 to ISO819,200. Some of thebest low-light camerasare particularly good at handling high ISOs
What is ISO in photography is one question – what ISO actually means is another!
Confusingly, the top ISO settings on some models are hidden and must be enabled using a custom option called ‘ISO Expansion’ or similar. The reason for this is that each time you increase the ISO setting, you also get a small and cumulative decrease in image quality. So, while cameras boast extremely high or low ‘expanded’ ISO sensitivities, you may not want to use them!
Boosting the picture signal also amplifies impurities in the signal known as ‘noise’. This noise shows up as grain and color mottling in the image – and this gets progressively more noticeable the higher the ISO is set.
You only need to use a high ISO in low light if the camera is handheld, or the subject is moving. With static subjects, and a tripod, you can use the slowest setting – here a setting of ISO100 (Image credit: Chris George)
For low light images where the subject is moving, a higher ISO (here ISO1600) become essential
Some photographers try to resist increasing the ISO at all costs in search of getting the best, grain-free images. However, pumping up the ISO often actually increases image quality overall, as this simple change lets you use a faster shutter speed – thereby eliminating camera shake. A grainy picture is always better than a blurry one!
A higher ISO can also enable you to use a narrower aperture – increasing depth of field, and thus increasing the resolution of a lens – to give you sharper-looking pictures.
Although higher ISO settings are invaluable in low light, they are not essential for all low-light situations, in fact, if you can keep the camera steady, they are often best avoided. If you are using a solid tripod, the slowest ISO setting (ISO100) is usually the best option – as you can then use a longer shutter speed to make up for the lack of light.
Similarly, if you are using flash, high-ISO settings are not needed (although increasing the ISO will increase the effective range of your flash).
Luminance noise: Traditional monochromatic grain in darker areas (as seen in the wall behind the statue in the detail above right) is typical of luma noise
Chromatic noise:Low light interior shows chromatic noise in shadows, as seen in the rainbow speckles in the detail
There are two different types of noise found in digital images. Luminance noise shows up as a speckled pattern, like specks of black sand, and is similar to the grain that was found when using high-ISO black-and-white films. Chromatic noise is colored and looks like the rainbow-like sheen when looking at a patch of oil (and is similar in appearance to the blotchy dye patterns that you saw when enlarging high-ISO color films).
It’s important to look at these two types of noise separately – as each can be reduced using different tools during the editing stage. These are often provided as separate noise-reduction sliders by a RAW converter (such as inAdobe Photoshop’s Camera Raw utility). Specialist software, such asDxO Dfine, is particularly useful for reducing noise without sacrificing detail.
So, what is ISO in photography? It’s a whole lot of things – and all of them are important!
APS-C cameras from the Fujifilm X100VI to the Canon EOS R100 still have a lot to offer
Most camera shoppers look at specifications like megapixels, but there’s a feature that can often be even more important: the type of camera sensor. A popular option is APS-C, a sensor size that balances image quality with price. But, to the novice photographer, that camera spec looks like a confusing alphabet soup that inevitably begs the question, what is an APS-C camera?
An APS-C camera is a digital camera that uses a sensor that’s smaller thana full-frame sensorbut larger thanMicro Four Thirds. This mid-size sensor is the Goldilocks of camera sensors – not too small, but not too expensive either.
The term, which stands for Advanced Photo System Type C, originates from photography’s film era but today is more often used to describe a class of digital cameras. The exact size of the APS-C sensor varies slightly by manufacturer but measures roughly 23mm by 15mm.
This comparison shows how an APS-C sensor compares to full frame, as well as how it crops the image
That’s about 1.5 times smaller than a full-frame sensor. Full frame sensors are considered the standard for professional cameras.
Because APS-C cameras have sensors that are slightly smaller than full frame, the lenses appear to be cropped. Compared to the larger full frame, an APS-C sensor crops off the edges, which is why APS-C cameras are also referred to as crop sensor cameras.
The Sony A6700 on the left has an APS-C sensor while the Sony A7c on the right has a larger full-frame sensor
Most photographers will tell you that the larger the sensor is, the better – and that’s mostly true. A larger sensor will produce less grain and gather more light than a smaller one, among other benefits. But, an APS-C can have some advantages over full frame.
The first is the crop factor. Because APS-C cameras crop the edges off a full frame, the lenses appear to me more “zoomed in” than on a full frame camera. An APS-C camera has a 1.5x crop factor. Many full frame camera lenses will still work on an APS-C camera (provided you purchase the correct mount), but that lens will have a 1.5x cropped view on it when compared to putting that same lens on a full frame camera.
What does that mean? It means that a 50mm lens becomes a 75mm lens on an APS-C camera, which means the photo appears to be taken at a closer distance because those image edges are cropped off. If you are taking pictures of a far away subject, as is often the case with wildlife or sports, that crop factor can actually be an advantage because your lens appears to reach a bit farther.
However, don’t buy a crop sensor camera just for that added reach. Why? Because if you really want that reach, you canuse a full frame camera in crop mode, or crop the images later inLightroomorPhotoshop. You lose some resolution, but by turning the crop mode on a full frame camera on and off you can effectively have the benefits of both full frame and crop sensor from one camera.
The other big advantage of an APS-C camera is the cost. Crop sensor cameras tend to cost less thanfull frame cameras. That’s not always the case, as with entry-level options like thePanasonic Lumix S9compared to the advancedFujifilm X-H2, but for the most part crop sensor cameras cost less.
Another perk? Often APS-C cameras can be more compact than full-frame cameras. Some APS-C cameras with large grips can feel more like full-frame cameras, however.
The Canon EOS R100 is a budget-friendly APS-C camera
While APS-C are more affordable and give lenses more reach, the full frame sensor is considered the professional standard. A larger sensor lets in more light, so full frame cameras have an advantage in dark scenarios.
Full frame cameras will also produce more background blur orbokeh. And if you want to take an ultra-wide shot of a landscape, the crop factor on APS-C cameras becomes a disadvantage, cropping off the widest edges, rather than an advantage like with telephoto lenses.
Are APS-C cameras worth it?
TheNikon Z50is a compact APS-C camera
While full-frame cameras have more light-gathering abilities, the APS-C camera is the sweet spot for many photographers to get a camera at a reasonable price that still takes excellent images. If you want the best possible image quality and have a large budget, you’ll probably lean towards full frame. But if you want the best balance between features and price, you’ll want to consider an APS-C camera.
Many of the best mirrorless cameras are APS-C – and even some popular compact cameras like theFujifilm X100VI. APS-C cameras have more light gathering power than Micro Four Thirds, but tend to cost less than full frame cameras.
While the full frame camera category has more professional cameras, don’t believe the myth that professional photographers have to use full frame cameras. I’m a professional wedding and portrait photographer and I shoot withFujifilmAPS-C cameras. I chose Fujifilm for the colors, and the APS-C sensor is still plenty big enough, especially since I traded my full-frame f/2.8 lens for an f/1.0 and f/1.2 primes so I could compensate for the smaller sensor.
Let’s be real — nobody buys a Chromebook for gaming. Their true strengths lie in the simplicity and efficiency for workers and students, alongside being good for binge-watching to your heart’s content.
But for playing games? That’s a “no” from me. Even when Google promoted its laptops as being the “ultimate cloud gaming machine” a few years back (thead with Michelle Rodriguezstill runs through my mind), they couldn’t stand up to thebest gaming laptopssporting the latest in gaming-focused specs.
Not even theAcer Chromebook 516 GE($649), which isspecificallymade for gaming, could compete with the raw might of, say, anAsus ROG Zephyrus G14($1,999). Considering their price differences, though, that’s to be expected. But here’s the thing: wouldn’t it be great to play the latest games on a more generally affordable lineup of laptops? Of course, and Chromebooks present that chance.
Since 2011, I’ve seen Google’s laptops evolve — delivering better performance, greater connectivity and now a new category of beefier notebooks: Chromebook Plus. Surely, the best Chromebooks of today could manage to pull off decent gaming performance, right?
Well, that’s what I hoped, and after using a Chromebook as my main way to play games, I can say that the results are mixed. Ultimately, though, I was surprised by what was on offer, even if it still has a long way to go.
While these laptops aren’t made for gaming, you might be surprised to know that there are several ways to boot up a game on a Chromebook. There are plenty of compatible gaming apps on the Google Play Store, cloud gaming via Xbox Game Pass Ultimate and GeForce Now and yes, you can alsoinstall Steam on a Chromebook.
Each delivers a variety of titles new and old, fromIndiana Jones and the Great Circleto Grand Theft Auto: San Andreas. Great, the games are here, but the real question is: can a Chromebook handle them?
I booted up aSamsung Galaxy Chromebook Plus, a fine laptop with an excellent 15.6-inch FHD (1920 x 1080) AMOLED display and the following specs: Intel Core i3 100U CPU, Intel Graphics, 8GB DDR5X RAM and 256GB for storage. Not exactly beefy, but it meets the minimum requirements to play Steam on a Chromebook — and that’s enough for me.
I tried playing games in each category, with the Play Store being the easiest — and my most viable — option.
AsApple continues to make gaming good on Macs, Google has quietly been populating its Play Store on Chromebooks with a strong catalog of Android games. NotResident Evil 4-type good, but more in the classic and addictive, popular titles type of way.
There’s everything from Roblox and Among Us to Dead Cells, Stardew Valley and Loop Hero. There are even all-time classics like GTA: San Andreas, Castlevania: Symphony of the Night and Final Fantasy III 3D Remake. Then there are addictive card-based titles such as Balatro, Slay the Spire and Marvel Snap.
These games may not be high-quality blockbuster hits that we see on Steam, but they’re popular games that I would spend dozens of hours sinking my thumbs into regardless of the gaming device I play them on.
I booted up Balatro first, and it worked like a charm. It’s not exactly a demanding title, and it’s easily playable on many smartphones. Still, seeing as this break-out hit is even on a PS5, you bet this is the kind of game many gamers are checking out, and having this easily playable on a Chromebook is a major bonus.
I continued with the low-demanding title streak by playing the all-time classic RPG Chrono Trigger, made way back in 1995. And yes, now a full 30 years later, it can be played on a Chromebook. Hardly a surprise, but it’s an engaging title to play on a Chromebook nevertheless.
Now, I decided to up the stakes a tad. I installed Call of Duty Mobile to see how well the Galaxy Chromebook Plus could handle 3D rendering, but I never got past the launch screen. Every time I opened the app, it would automatically force quit shortly after showing logos for a split second. Even after looking at the minimal troubleshooters online, like reinstalling the app, none of it worked. Apparently, it only works on certain Chromebooks, and one of them isn’t mine.
So Genshin Impact it is. Not my general cup of tea, but a popular title fit for any gaming device. Unfortunately, though, to no avail. After what took over an hour to download the game and compile shaders, I was treated to the opening cinematic, where I could also choose my character. Afterward, though, it crashed. After booting it up multiple times, it kept crashing. Of course, this leads me to believe this isn’t made for 3D graphics.
All in all, a Chromebook does have a nice selection of games to play from the Play Store, unless they demand the third dimension. One point of annoyance: Netflix has a great catalog of gaming apps to download that are included in subscriptions. Unfortunately, none of these apps are compatible with Chromebooks, which is a shame seeing as there are games like Dead Cells, Oxenfree, Katana Zero, Into the Breach and more.
If it’s the latest AAA titles you want, a Chromebook can provide — but only through cloud gaming. Chromebooks don’t have the specs to pull off premium gaming features like Nvidia’s ray tracing or DLSS 4 to boost frame rates, but they can stream games from a gaming PC that does.
More than anything, this all depends on your internet speeds and Wi-Fi connections. The gamer-ready Acer Chromebook 516 GE even comes with an Ethernet port for uninterrupted streaming. However, with the Galaxy Chromebook Plus’Wi-Fi 6Econnectivity (althoughWi-Fi 7is preferred), along with my home network’s internet speeds (up to 500Mbps), it should be enough to stream games on.
Lo and behold, it is! After using Xbox Game Pass Ultimate in a Chrome browser, I could scroll through a library of top-sellers, and that includes the updated Ninja Gaiden 2 Black. The thing is, these games need a controller to get going. A shame, seeing as there is a perfectly good keyboard here for certain titles, but a PS5 DualSense controller does the trick.
Without any installs, I tried out the latest, upscaled edition of Ryu Hayabusa’s action-packed adventure. At first, visuals and gameplay were super smooth, and I was slicing, dicing and Izuna Dropping enemies without any lag. Then, as the on-screen action got more chaotic with waves of foes, the game dropped quality and stuttered far too frequently. As any fan of the fast-paced action franchise would know, this is not the way to play Ninja Gaiden.
I then tried Indiana Jones and the Great Circle and had a far better time. Perhaps it’s the slower pace of action-adventure’s stealth sections, exploration and combat, but I was able to get through an entire level without any hiccups. A tiny stutter here and there, but nothing game-breaking. That’s genuinely impressive, especially for a laptop that would never be able to handle such a game on its own.
Cloud gaming is a great option for Chromebooks, as Microsoft appears to have put the legwork in to make its cloud gaming a more viable service for gamers over the years. While titles that require minimal input lag aren’t a great match, more slow-paced games, even like Persona 3 Reloaded or Citizen Sleeper. Of course, though, this all depends on your internet speeds.
As a quick note: I tried to use Nvidia’s cloud-gaming service GeForce Now as a free user, trying out Ghostrunner. However, not being a paying subscriber myself, I didn’t get the best experience. In fact, it barely ran a few minutes before the directional inputs spun out of control (as evidenced below).
Steam on Chromebooks is a step forward
Steam for Chromebooks has been around for a while now, and even though it’s still in beta, Valve’s gaming client looks good on a Chromebook. It’s easy to install for Chromebooks that meet theminimum requirements, and it’s the full Steam package you’d expect on Windows. There are still a few issues, but overall, you can install and play games from your library as usual.
Well, therightgames. There’s no chance my Chromebook could run the likes of Cyberpunk 2077. I even tried playing one of my favorite titles of 2024, Anger Foot, which doesn’t require demanding specs, and it didn’t stand a chance of getting to the title screen before shutting down.
Instead, I stuck to more 2D indie games, such as Hotline Miami. This worked without a hitch, and gameplay was even snappy and smooth — two things required in this fast-paced top-down shooter.
Using Steam to game on a Chromebook is more trial and error, and depends entirely on the specs of a Chromebook, like any gaming PC. I can’t imagine all games will work, especially ones that push the limits of having 8GB of RAM, but for those classic titles and more pixelated games, Chromebooks can pull it off.
So, this leads back to the all important question…
Is gaming on a Chromebook any good now?
Truthfully, I don’t think gaming on a Chromebook is a terrible option anymore. At one point, I had no faith in what a Chromebook could offer, and couldn’t fathom trying to game on one. Seeing as the main focus of these laptops is for education and workers using web-based applications, gaming hasn’t been a high priority.
However, that doesn’t mean games can’t be played on one. Set your expectations, and you’ll be happily playing popular titles that don’t require an RTX 50-series GPU or equivalent. There are plenty of classic RPGs on the Play Store and Steam worth investing time into, and the latest Chromebooksshouldbe able to handle it all.
Moreover, cloud gaming is better than ever, and if you have a decent internet connection (and a controller), you can game to your heart’s content with the latest titles that come to Game Pass — and there are quite a few.
Will I continue to game on a Chromebook? Unlikely, especially when I have a proper gaming laptop and PS5 at hand. But for those interested in an affordable Chromebook and wondering if it’s possible to game on it, yes, you can. You’ll get a far better experience on a value gaming laptop like theAsus TUF Gaming A14, but if you’re looking to keep things cheap and cheery, Chromebooks aren’t the worst shout.
They may look similar, but actually aren’t. We explain the key differences between Thunderbolt vs USB-C.
If you’ve bought a computer recently—whether that’s one thebest laptops for graphic designor aMac for video editing—it’ll probably come with either Thunderbolt ports, USB-C ports, or a mix of both. These little slots in the side allow you to connect a range of peripherals, from printers to thebest monitor for MacBook Pro.
But which is which? It’s not obvious. Thunderbolt and USB-C ports look identical, and they work in pretty much the same way.
The broad-brush answer is thattypically, Thunderbolt works faster and more efficiently than USB-C. But that’s not always the case, and there are some other important differences between them too. We’ll explain all below.
What are Thunderbolt and USB-C?
USB stands for Universal Serial Bus. It’s basically a standard way for devices to connect and communicate with each other. This allows many different devices to connect to each other, including phones, printers, mice and external hard drives.
USB sends data back and forth between devices. This data could be anything from photos and videos to documents and music. USB can also deliver power to devices, which is why you can charge your phone by plugging it into the USB-C port on your computer. These days, most laptops, computers, smartphones and tablets come with USB-C ports. These are faster and more efficient than the older USB-A ports, which are larger and require a different (again larger) connector. The most common standard is USB 3.2 Gen 2, although the latest standard, USB4, is now increasingly being rolled out. (More on that in a moment.)
Thunderbolt is a special type of USB-C connector. Born from a 2011 collaboration between Intel andApple, it allows for high-speed data transfer, video signal transmission, and device charging.
Initially exclusive to Apple products, Thunderbolt later evolved to become more universal with the introduction of Thunderbolt 3 and 4, both of which are compatible with USB-C.
Thunderbolt 4 is a significant upgrade from Thunderbolt 3. Most notably, it allows you to connect two 4K monitors or one 8K monitor, doubles the minimum data transfer speed to 3,000 MB/s, and offers enhanced security.
What devices are Thunderbolt and USB-C compatible with?
USB-C is virtually ubiquitous in modern tech. Most new smartphones, tablets, and laptops, regardless of brand, come equipped with USB-C ports.
Thunderbolt ports, however, are typically found on high-performance devices, especially those designed for creative professionals. Apple’sMacBook ProandMacBook Airlaptops, along with some Intel-powered Windows laptops, often feature Thunderbolt ports. Peripherals like external hard drives, monitors and docking stations also increasingly support Thunderbolt connectivity.
How do you know if your device is compatible with Thunderbolt? The quickest way to find out is by checking the product specifications on the box or manual that came with your device, or by taking a look at the manufacturer’s website.
Most of the time, you can’t tell by looking. Sometimes, though, there might be a lightning symbol to identify a port as Thunderbolt-compatible.
How fast do Thunderbolt and USB-C transfer data?
Thunderbolt offers significantly faster data transfer speeds than the standard (USB 3.2 Gen 2) version of USB-C. For example, Thunderbolt 4 boasts speeds of up to 40 Gbps, while USB 3.2 Gen 2 typically maxes out at 20 Gbps.
Often, then, you’ll read online that Thunderbolt is “better than USB-C” for tasks involving large files, such as video editing or 3D rendering. The very latest version of USB-C, however, has muddied the waters there. While USB4 is still relatively new, it’s gaining traction, and you’ll find it in a growing number of devices.
USB4 is actually based on the Thunderbolt protocol, which was developed by Intel. This means it can achieve similar speeds and capabilities as Thunderbolt. However, there are some subtle differences.
Most notably, USB4 has some flexibility in its specifications. So while itcansupport speeds up to 40Gbps, it can also be implemented with a minimum speed of 20Gbps. In other words, unlike Thunderbolt devices, not all USB4 devices will offer the same level of performance.
The final thing to add is that Thunderbolt 5 is currently being rolled out, which boosts speeds up to 80Gbps. It’s new technology, so the number of devices that fully support it is still somewhat limited. It is, however, already implemented on some, including theMacBook Pro 2024.
Thunderbolt vs USB-C: Which one is best?
We’ve talked about how Thunderbolt cables are generally faster and more powerful than typical USB-C cables. However, if your device is not compatible with Thunderbolt then you’re probably not missing out on much. If you only need to connect to a singular monitor and don’t do an awful lot of file transfers, then Thunderbolt ports aren’t a necessity for you.
Conversely, for creative pros who already own Thunderbolt-equipped tech, we think it’s a no-brainer to invest in a Thunderbolt cable or a device with Thunderbolt ports to use with your workstation for maximum productivity. That said, expect to pay a higher price for this.
Thirdly, as we mentioned earlier, the introduction of USB4 offers a decent alternative to Thunderbolt that’s usually more affordable. Be aware, though, that as well as potential differences in speed, USB4 only supports a single 4K display, while Thunderbolt can support two 4K displays or a single 8K display, making it more suitable for multi-monitor setups.
USB-C
Thunderbolt
Pros
• Flippability (no right side up or down) • Can transmit data at speeds up to 20Gbps (up to 40Gbps with USB4) • Can deliver up to 100 watts of power to charge devices • It can transmit DisplayPort audio and video signals
• Much faster than standard USB-C ports • Can transfer data at up to 40Gbps • Thunderbolt 4 supports sending video signals to two 4K displays or one 8K display • Backwards-compatibility with USB-C devices
Cons
• Slower for data and file transfers • USB-C can only connect one device at a time.
• Not as common as USB-C ports • An adapter is required to use with smaller devices
FAQs
Are Thunderbolt ports only on Apple products?
Thunderbolt technology is the brainchild of Apple and Intel, so of course you’re likely to find Thunderbolt ports on most if not all Apple laptops. However, Thunderbolt is not exclusive to Apple, and several Windows laptops are also compatible with Thunderbolt cables and ports.
You’ll also find that most external hard drives, docking stations, monitors, and other peripherals now also support Thunderbolt, so there are plenty of options for you to choose from to benefit from Thunderbolt’s high transfer speeds.
Here’s everything you need to know about JPEGs, one of the most widely used file formats for photographs
While much of the technology behind digital cameras has changed since the first prototypes, one feature that’s nearly as old hasn’t: the JPEG. A JPEG is one of the most widely used file formats for a digital photograph. The file format’s widespread popularity means the file can be opened by nearly any device and thousands, if not millions, of different programs.
If you want to share a digital photograph, the odds are the file type that you want is a JPEG. But just because the JPEG is one of the most widely used formats doesn’t mean it’salwaysthe best option. Photographers – and anyone who has ever snapped a photo with a camera or a smartphone – should know what a JPEG is, when to use one, and when not to use one. Consider this your Photography 101 course to the ins and outs of a JPEG.
What is a JPEG file type? Explaining the most common image format
A JPEG is a compressed, processed image file that is easily shared. Because the JPEG is one of the world’s most widely used file formats for a digital image, it’s typically the best file format for an image that’s meant to be shared. If you want to share a photograph, whether through email, social media or uploading it to a photo printer, a JPEG is the file type you want because anyone can open one.
JPEG stands for Joint Photographics Experts Group, the name of the committee that maintains the list of standards for the JPEG file type. But don’t worry, you don’t have to memorize the long name to understand and use a JPEG properly. The JPEG was first developed in the late 1980s, with the standards first published in 1992, to create a smaller yet standarized digital image file type. Before the JPEG, graphics were often saved as Bitmaps, which took up quite a bit of hard drive space.
JPEG files end in .JPG. A JPEG and JPG are the same thing, but file formats typically only have three letters so the E is dropped in the file extension. If a file ends in .JPG, it’s a JPEG. You can also check the file type by viewing the files in File Explorer (on PC) or Finder (on Mac) and look under the file type column in the list view. On a smartphone, you can check the file type by clicking on the photo in the Camera Roll (iPhone) or Google Photos and tapping the i icon.
Because a JPEG can be opened by nearly any device, the file format is often the best choice formost peoplewhen saving a photo that is meant to be shared. But, understanding a few other key image file formats will help you determine if the JPEG is the best choice for your particular project.
JPEG isn’t always the best file format for photography, this is why
The RAW file type is often favored by advanced photographers for its editing flexibility
Psst! Here’s a hint
Don’t know whether to use RAW or JPEG? Most cameras will allow you to select RAW + JPEG to save both file types.
While JPEGS are one of the most widely image formats used, it’s not the best for every situation. If you don’t want to edit the image and aren’t short on hard drive space, then the JPEG is a great format to use. But file types like HEIF save space on your device while RAW files are more versatile for photo editing.
HEIF, or High Effeciency Image Format, is a file type that takes up less space than a JPEG, without a noticeable impact on image quality. However, HEIF isn’t as widely compatible as the standard JPEG. An HEIF file can be opened by mostAppledevices, while many Windows users need to download extra software to be able to open them, and if you send an HEIF by text to an Android phone, it looks tiny. Apple also has a similar format called HEIC that’s newer though less widely compatible than HEIF.
PNG or Portable Network Graphicis a file type that’s designed more for graphic design than for photographs. But while photographs are easiest to save as a JPEG, you may need to use the PNG format for things like logos and, in particular, graphics designed to have a transparent background.
A RAW fileis uncompressed and often preferred by professional and advanced photographers. A JPEG is a compressed image file with the camera’s automatic edits already applied. A RAW file doesn’t have any edits applied from the camera and it retains more of the original data, which makes the file type better for photo editing.It’s worth noting, when comparingRAW and JPEG, that once photographers edit their RAW photos, they typically export the finished file as a JPEG so it can be easily shared.
FAQs on JPEGs and other popular file types
Is JPEG and JPG the same?
A JPEG and a JPG are one and the same. JPEG is the official name of the file type, but since file name extensions typically use three letters, you’ll see a .JPG at the end of the file name. Sometimes the E is dropped beyond just the file extension as well.
What is the difference between a PNG and a JPEG?
A PNG file is meant for graphic design while a JPEG is meant for a photograph. PNG files support transparent backgrounds, a feature that you don’t need for sharing a photograph. For example, if you great a circle-shaped logo in Photoshop, but save it as a JPEG, you’ll probably see a white background around the logo when you try to upload it to your website. Instead, save it as a PNG and you won’t see any of that annoying white background.
What is the difference between a JPEG and a PDF?
A JPEG is designed for a photograph while aPDF is designed for documents– it actually stands for Portable Document Format. Both JPGs and PDFs can be opened by most devices and many different apps.
A JPEG file is typically smaller in size. A PDF allows you to do things like copy text and also tends to render text better when enlarged.
You only need to use a high ISO in low light if the camera is handheld, or the subject is moving. With static subjects, and a tripod, you can use the slowest setting – here a setting of ISO100 (Image credit: Chris George)
Luminance noise: Traditional monochromatic grain in darker areas (as seen in the wall behind the statue in the detail above right) is typical of luma noise 
