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I’m here to show you how to reset a graphics driver on your PC
If you’re having persistent crashes, black screens, frame rate drops, or other issues, learning how to reset a graphics driver should be your first step. Even thebest graphics cardscan sometimes run into driver issues, and resetting a graphics driver can often do the trick with minimal effort or troubleshooting.
I’ve been building PCs for years, and I’ve reset my fair share of GPU drivers, so I’m here to help you out with a full step-by-step guide for the reset graphics driver process to help you get your PC back into tip-top shape, regardless of whether you’re resetting a laptop GPU driver, a desktop graphics card driver, or the driver for your integrated graphics.
TOOLS & REQUIREMENTS
PC or laptop
An internet connection
Quick steps for how to reset graphics driver
If resetting a discrete graphics card driver,Download the latest driverfrom AMD, Nvidia, or Intel’s websites, depending on your graphics card, before doing anything else.
Uninstallyour current driver
Open the Device Manager
Find yourgraphics driver under Display adapters.
Right-click the display adapter driver
ChooseUninstall Device
Restart your PC
For integrated graphics
Windows willautomatically updateyour graphics driver when you start your PC.
For discrete graphics
Once Windows loads,run the downloaded driver installerand follow the instructions provided.
Once you’re in the Device Manager, scan the list of components until you findDisplay adapters. Click on the arrow next to it to reveal your graphics devices.
The first option will usually be eitherAMD Radeon GraphicsorIntel HD Graphics. If you’re resetting your intergrated graphics driver,right-click on this option.
If you have discrete graphics and you want to reset this driver, there should be a second driver underneath the first for your discrete graphics driver, and this is the oneyou shouldright-click.
Once the context menu opens up,select ‘Uninstall Device’and confirm the uninstall operation when necessary.
Your display may flicker during this process, but will eventually finish.
5. Restart your PC
Restart your computerfor the changes to take full effect.
6. Reinstall graphics driver
If resetting your integrated graphics driver, Windows willautomatically update the driveronce Windows restarts.
If resetting your discrete graphics driver,run the graphics driver installer package you downloaded, orrun the appropriate app from AMD, Intel, or Nvidia for your GPU.
Follow the promptsfrom your tool of choice andreinstall the driver. Your screen will flicker and go black at times.
Restart your PCto finish the process.
Final thoughts
Resetting your graphics driver is a common solution to a whole bunch of graphics card issues, so it’s a good idea to familiarize yourself with this process.
Generally, you don’t need to reset your graphics driver if your system is running smoothly. But if you do ever run into issues, this is one of the first things you should do to resolve the problem, making knowing how to reset graphics drivers very useful knowledge for gamers and casual users alike.
Google has admitted that another Pixel A series smartphone has a battery problem. This time, it is the Pixel 7a that is affected. For now, Google has committed to offering one free battery replacement or between $200 and $456 in compensation, depending on eligibility.
Google now admits that the Pixel 7a can suffer from battery issues too. (Image source: Google)
Google has just released thePixel 9aglobally, which further narrows the gap between the company’s Pixel A series and its flagship smartphones. While Pixel A and Pixel smartphones share many components, Google the former have increasingly struggled with battery-related issues in recent months.
For example, Google published an update for thePixel 4aat the start of the year that effectivelyhalved the smartphone’s battery life. Fast forward to March and Google confirmed that the Pixel 9a’s battery would start degradingafter 200 cycles. Worse still, the device would slowly decrease its voltage between 201 and 1,000 cycles.
Now, Google has quietly announced an ‘extended repair programme’ for thePixel 7a, which debuted less than two years ago. In a support post, the company admits that batteries in certain Pixel 7a handsets have degraded to the point that they have started inflating. Typically, this fault would present itself when the battery forces the Pixel 7a’s back panel to bulge or detatch completely. However, there is a chance that the only sympton is drasticaly shorter battery life.
Currently, Google has only committed to one free battery replacement. Even then, the company will refuse a battery replacement if your Pixel 7a has liquid damage, display cracks or ‘exposure to sharp objects’. If you live outside India or the United States, you may be eligible for various ‘appeasement options’ worth up to $456 converted to your local currency. Please see Google’ssupportandregistration pagesfor more information.
Replacing the Pixel 7a’s battery is not an easy task. (Image source: iFixit)
Samsung is taking a page from Apple Wallet, adding layaway and tap-to-send options to its Wallet app.
What you need to know
Samsung Wallet is testing out two exciting features: ‘Buy Now, Pay Later’ and ‘Tap to Transfer,’ with a potential U.S. launch on the horizon.
The ‘Instant Installment’ feature lets you split payments for purchases, while ‘Tap to Transfer’ works like Apple’s Tap to Cash but with more flexibility for other digital wallets.
The BNPL feature, powered by Splitit, will let you use Visa or Mastercard without a credit check, though activation may require approval and could have extra fees.
A fresh beta build has given us a sneak peek atSamsung Wallet’s “buy now, pay later”and tap-to-send options, and although these are not official yet, all signs point to these features rolling out soon.
When the Galaxy S25 series made its debut in January, Samsung also snuck in some software updates that flew under the radar. Two standout features were “Instant Installment” for breaking up payments and a peer-to-peer money transfer option that Samsung calls “Tap to Transfer.”
Samsung’s Tap to Transfer works a lot like Apple’s Tap to Cash—just bump phones to send money. However, while Apple keeps things locked in its ecosystem, Samsung is presumably playing nice with other digital wallets. That means you might not need aGalaxy phoneto receive cash, giving it a flexibility Apple doesn’t offer.
Now, leaked screenshots ofSamsung Wallet, shared by@theordysm on X, show a “Buy Now, Pay Later” feature in the works, powered by Splitit (via9to5Google). It looks like it’ll work with Visa and Mastercard, with no credit check needed. That said, activation still needs approval, and there might be some extra fees in the mix.
Both features are still in the testing phase, going through internal checks and limited beta runs. Word on the street is Samsung might launch them first in the U.S. once they’re ready for primetime.
From the screenshots, it looks like the Installment Payments feature will let users split their purchases into weekly payments. This option should be available for pretty much any transaction made through Samsung Wallet.
Samsung’s installment payments aren’t about offering credit or loans. Think of it as turning your regular purchases into a pay-over-time plan, whether you’re checking out online or in a physical store.
The funds transfer feature lets users send money either through a digital network or by tapping an NFC-compatible device or payment card. The recipient’s bank account, linked to their debit card, gets the funds straight away.
While we don’t know exactly how fast the transfers will be, the ability to send money just by tapping a debit card is definitely a game changer.
If you’ve been a PC gamer for the past five years, then you’ve no doubt heard the term Frame Generation. It’s at the forefront of marketing for bothAMD’s andNvidia’sbest graphics cardsand has slowly become a more important defining factor of performance, eclipsing that of even native figures as games have become more demanding.
But what is Frame Generation? More importantly, how does it work? That’s what batterymap.co.nz is here to answer. Making things a little more confusing is the fact that the two companies have different names and versions for their respective technologies. We’re going to cut through all the jargon and get you up to speed.
Before we go any further, however, it’s important to note that you’ll need a fairly modern graphics card to use Frame Generation, regardless of the company making it. For AMD, that means a minimum of an RX 5000 GPU (though later software is exclusive to the latest GPUs), and only Nvidia’s RTX 40 series and RTX 50 series from 2022 and 2025 can access the technology.
In computing terms, frames are images generated by your graphics card which are sequenced for a framerate. This will mean a minimum of 30 frames (but ideally 60 or above) to make games playable. Frame Generation adds an AI-generated frame alongside a natively rendered one, and Nvidia’s Multi Frame Generation can add up to three alongside the natively rendered frame.
(Image credit: AMD)
What is AMD Frame Generation?
Frame Generation is a tool for your graphics card that generates additional frames when gaming. This allows for much higher framerates compared to the native performance of the GPUs, and has essentially become a requirement in recent years for acheiving high framerates in higher resolutions in demanding software.
With that said, the technology works differently on AMD and Nvidia hardware. While AMD originally launched its Frame Generation technology with AMD Fluid Motion Frames (AFMF), which is currently in its second iteration, the tech has some limitations. While open source and driver-based to run through software, it provided a way for older (or slower) graphics cards to get a framerate boost but was superseded by AMD FidelityFX Super Resolution (FSR). Though FSR 3 (available to RX 5000 series cards and up) and FSR 4 (RX 9000 only) can do a lot more.
FSR 3 was launched in September 2023 with more advanced algorithmically-based upscaling and Frame Generation technology only for supported games, rather than being driver-based and open-source. With FSR 3’s upscaling and Frame Generation enabled, you could see a massive uplift in performance compared to native rendering, especially in higher resolutions, sometimes as much as 3x.
In contrast, the recently released FSR 4 is AI-powered and exclusive to the RX 9000 series with its Frame Generation technology. That means only the RX 9070 and RX 9070 XT can make use of the quality improvements and upgradable API, which allow for superior image quality and smoothness when compared to the previous version. It uses the same FSR 3.1 API and now features “anti-lag” features to remove input latency, which is a common concern with interlaced frames.
(Image credit: Nvidia)
What is DLSS Frame Generation?
Things are more straightforward with Nvidia’s Frame Generation technology, which has seen a similar evolution since it was first introduced. It begins with Nvidia’s Deep Learning Super Sampling (DLSS) which is an AI-powered upscaler utilizing the Tensor Cores on RTX graphics cards. By using hand-tuned algorithms, the native rendering is halfed by resolution and then upscaled with AI to achieve higher framerates compared to what could be done natively.
DLSS 3 launched in October 2022 with the release of Nvidia’s RTX 40 series graphics cards and the exclusive feature of Frame Generation, something that previous RTX cards could not do. This is due to the requirement of fourth-generation Tensor Cores which were fast enough to generate frames.Described by the companyas the “performance multiplier”, Nvidia’s Frame Generation uses a combination of software and hardware for up to 4x the native performance and twice the responsiveness.
On the software side, there’s AI Super Resolution, AI Frame Generation, and Nvidia Reflex to upscale the picture, generate additional frames with AI, and then reduce input latency. This is done on the hardware front with 1.4 PetaFLOPs available in the fourth-generation Tensor Cores, 305 TOPs of the Optical Flow Accelerator and Nvidia’s supercomputer, which is always running and improving DLSS algorithms.
That brings us to DLSS 4, released on January 30, 2025, exclusively for the RTX 50 series (such as theRTX 5090,RTX 5080, andRTX 5070 Ti), and evolved the technology with Multi Frame Generation (MFG). While the previous version generated a frame for every natively rendered one, MFG can generate three, allowing for 4x the native framerates.Nvidia claimsthat the latest AI model is 40% faster while using 30% less VRAM.
Now that we’ve outlined how Frame Generation works with AMD’s and Nvidia’s respective takes on the tech, we can look at the differences in performance and the supported games.AMD’s FSR 4 currently supports nearly 40 gamesand counting, including Call of Duty: Black Ops 6, FragPunk, Civilization 7, and Marvel’s Spider-Man 2. In contrast, there are around 76 games that support FSR 3, with some exclusive to FSR 3.1.
In contrast, there are currently over 150 games that support Nvidia’s DLSS 3 and counting, with 75 games confirmed to support DLSS 4 soon. This includes support for games such as Alan Wake 2, Dragon Age: The Veilguard, Microsoft Flight Simulator 2024, Silent Hill 2, Indiana Jones and the Great Circle, and Marvel Rivals.
What you’ll notice is that Frame Generation is not available for everything you could ever want to play on PC, whether it’s handled by AMD or Nvidia hardware. While the open-source driver-based AMD AFMF can fill in the gaps by unsupported games, it will not deliver the same level of performance boost by comparison. Given the two most recent versions, it makes the most sense to compare FSR 4 vs DLSS 4 for the best possible performance.
While Nvidia DLSS 3’s Frame Generation and DLSS 4’s Multi Frame Generation have left a strong impression as the leading options, the gap is certainly closing as AMD’s FSR 4 looks to hold its own. This is likely due to being exclusive to the RX 9000 series instead of being more open as with AFMF, FSR 2, and FSR 3 from before. We can see this is evident inDigital Foundry’s benchmarkingespecially.
AMD’s RX 9000 lineup is roughly equivalent to midrange RTX 50 series hardware, so the comparisons in upscaling performance with the RX 9070 XT and RTX 5070 Ti are about as even as things can get. While the general frame rates are a little lower in FSR 4 compared to FSR 3, it’s generally said that the image quality is higher as a result, but you’ll have the option of both on a recent AMD GPU.
We can see this with Ratchet & Clank: Rift Apart in 4K. The RX 9070 XT delivers average framerates of 109, where the RTX 5070 Ti averages 106. However, with FSR 4 Performance mode, that drops down to 101, whereas the RX 5070 Ti shoots up to 128. Things are comparable in terms of image and smoothness, but Nvidia pulls ahead slightly, albeit not quite as dramatically as you may be expecting.
While it’s still early days for the latest versions of the Frame Generation tech, looking back to FSR 3.1 vs DLSS 3.7 can give a wider indication of how it performs for the previous-generation RX 7000 and RTX 40 series cards. Remember, both FSR 3 and DLSS 3 also work on the latest GPU generations, just not the other way around. We can see the quality and performance differences fromUltrawide Tech’s benchmarkingfrom late last year.
We can see what FSR 3’s Frame Generation and DLSS 3’s Frame Generation can do on the previous-generation graphics cards, AMD’s 7900 XT and Nvidia’s RTX 4070 Ti. Natively, neither card can achieve 60fps in Star Wars Jedi: Survivor in 1440p on the Epic preset, but upscaling (FSR and DLSS) gets boosted to 76fps and 60fps, respectively. Frame Generation, however, greatly improves things to 147fps and 98fps apiece. This also makes 4K60 not only possible but also goes beyond these figures, as the former gets close to 120fps and the latter excels to nearly 80fps.
Demanding games, such as Cyberpunk 2077, are a tall order for native hardware in higher resolutions than 1080p. The RX 7900 XT and 4070 Ti can barely achieve 30fps in 1440p with the game at Ultra preset with ray tracing enabled. Through Frame Generation, the figures climb to 94fps and 85fps each, with both cards able to achieve 4K60 (and above).
While we’ve been consistently impressed with what AMD and Nvidia can do with Frame Generation (particularly with the recent versions), the tech is not always going to be a win-win solution. Latency is a big concern of Frame Generation even with AMD using an “anti-lag” feature with FSR 4 and Nvidia Reflex coming in clutch for DLSS 3 and DLSS 4. As such, with AI generated frames interpolated between rendered ones, it’s not going to be the ideal way to play certain games that require immediate inputs. You wouldn’t want to have lags and delays in competitive games like CS2, Marvel Rivals, and Rainbow Six: Siege, even though the tech is no doubt impressive.
That’s the trade-off with Frame Generation as a concept. However minor, you’re going to notice a slight delay with the potential for fuzziness, visual artifacts, and motion blur compared to native rendering. It was a big problem when this technology was new, however, it’s been improved year-on-year with each new version from AMD and Nvidia to a point where it’s much less of a problem than it once was. While the tech has been seen as black magic by some, it does have its limitations when it comes to image quality and smoothness.
Overall, Frame Generation is an excellent way to improve framerates on AMD and Nvidia graphics cards if you can look beyond the minor caveats. FSR 4’s quality mode and DLSS 4’s Multi Frame Generation offer sweeping improvements on the previous versions that make them as close to native-looking as possible with framerates you just won’t achieve conventionally.
The pushback on Frame Generation relates to the debate around “fake frames”. It’s been a point of discussion for over three years now, with some PC gamers decrying the tech as the death of native performance. It’s the distinction between natively rendered and AI-generated frames, after all. We’re seeing more and more titles rely on this technology to hit playable framerates, which, consequently, has seen the optimization of some PC games suffer as a result. Some have seen Frame Generation as a crutch, which it can be if a title runs poorly by default, but that’s too sweeping of a blanket statement to make for emerging technology.
We have to accept that games are becoming more advanced, requiring more VRAM and more data to install and run. That’s to say nothing of ray tracing, which is incredibly demanding on the hardware even in 2025; some games are even being released now with ray tracing on by default, meaning you have to use AI upscaling and Frame Generation if you want playable figures. That’s the current landscape for PC gaming, and it’s unlikely to change any time soon.
The Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller’s tech specs have been revealed
According to Nintendo, its charging time will be significantly reduced
The new gamepad is also ever so slightly slimmer and lighter
There’s some great news if you’re looking to buy a Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller to go along with the new console in June.
Spotted byNintendo Life, Nintendo’s officialtechnical specificationsfor the Switch 2 Pro Controller have been revealed on its website.
While there are some slight differences in size and weight compared to the original version, the big change here is in battery charge time. On the revised Pro Controller, it’s now just 3.5 hours, down from the 6 hours of thatfirst model.
Better still, theNintendo Switch 2’s Pro Controller appears to feature the same mammoth battery life (around 40 hours) as the original. Factor in that significantly shortened charge time, and you have a controller that should be ready to go for wireless use more frequently.
Here’s a breakdown of the key specs between the Switch 2 Pro Controller and its predecessor:
Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller
Nintendo Switch Pro Controller
Dimensions
4.1 x 5.8 x 2.4in / 105 x 148 x 60.2mm
4.2 x 6.0 x 2.4in / 106 x 152 x 60mm
Weight
0.52lbs / 235g
0.54lbs / 246g
Battery life
Approx. 40 hours
Approx. 40 hours
Charge time
3.5 hours
6 hours
Connectivity
Bluetooth (wireless), USB-C (wired)
Bluetooth (wireless), USB-C (wired)
Vibration
HD Rumble 2
HD Rumble
Nintendo does warn that to achieve that charge time of 3 and a half hours, you’ll want to use an appropriate charging method. These include the Nintendo Switch 2’s AC adapter or the included USB-C charging cable. Any third-party variants could negatively impact overall charging time.
We can also see that the Switch 2 Pro Controller has been ever so slightly refined in terms of size and weight, coming in just a bit slimmer and lighter than the first model. It’s a tiny difference, though, and one that won’t really manifest unless you have each side by side.
If you’ve been shopping for a PC recently, there’s a good chance you’ve noticed the arrival of a new kind of computer called an AI PC. The term doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, but if it’s got you wondering whether your current computer is due for an upgrade, it’s working as intended. The truth is, although there is such a thing as an AI PC, the definition is a bit contested. Among the companies with an interest in selling computers under that label are Microsoft, HP, Intel, AMD, and Qualcomm, all of which have slightly different priorities. The result is a not insubstantial amount of confusion for both consumers and even those in the tech press.
What constitutes an AI PC depends on which of these companies you ask, and by now, many definitions have been put forth. Microsoft has one idea of what an AI PC should be, which we’ll get into, but there are other definitions that probably comport more with the expectations of users who actually want to run AI programs locally. The bottom line is that the vast majority of users probably wouldn’t notice the difference between an AI PC and a normal PC if both were put in front of them.
Ultimately, AI PCs might currently be a hammer in search of a nail, but as AI becomes incorporated into more workflows and as more tools are built to take advantage of new hardware, AI PCs could rapidly become much more capable than they currently are. So, let’s break down what constitutes an AI PC, why people may disagree over the definition of the term, and what you need to know when shopping for your next computer.
At the most simple level, an AI PC is any PC capable of running AI tasks locally. In many cases, that means they include a neural processing unit (NPU), which is a specialized processor or part of a processor built to handle AI tasks. Its performance is measured in trillions of operations per second or TOPS, and it can do things like run local AI models with more efficiency than a GPU-bound setup. But the thing is, there’s no strict definition of an AI PC beyond the vague concept of being able to run AI tasks. And you don’t need an NPU for that. GPUs are still the preferred hardware component for generative tasks, as they provide much more raw power, and the newest graphics cards from NVIDIA are built to handle AI tasks.
Microsoft and Intel have put forward a definition of AI PCs that includes three requirements: such a computer must have an NPU, CPU, and GPU, it must come with Microsoft Copilot, and it must have a dedicated Copilot key on the keyboard. This is a bit silly on its face since many AI PCs don’t even run Copilot locally, and the inclusion of a Copilot key has no relation to the computer’s actual capabilities. And besides, there are AI programs other than Copilot. Why shouldn’t a computer that runs local AI chatbots like DeepSeek and Meta Llama or an image pipeline like Stable Diffusion count as an AI PC?
Microsoft also maintains branding for a category of computers it calls Copilot+ PCs, which appear to be following the same qualifications. So, it might be most fair to conclude that AI PCs have a broad definition, requiring AI-capable hardware like a GPU or NPU, but not necessarily both.
Most people shouldn’t worry about getting an AI PC
The question you may be asking is whether you need an AI PC in order to future-proof your digital life, and the answer is, almost certainly not. There is little to no benefit for the vast majority of people, especially those who already have a PC with relatively up to date hardware. If you were to buy a PC with an NPU, you’d get a few features like sound suppression during voice calls, limited image generation, and camera features. Nothing most people would say no to having, but also nothing even close to justifying an upgrade from your current computer. If you were to upgrade in search of better AI performance, you’d be better off making sure your new machine has a decent graphics card than even considering whether it has an NPU.
As mentioned above, the vast majority of AI tasks require a GPU. If you want to run image generation tools or large language models locally, and especially if you want to train your own models, you’ll need one of the latest and most powerful graphics cards you can find. New GPUs like the NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5070, 5080, or 5090 are built with these uses in mind, and on a larger scale, NVIDIA is a major vendor of enterprise-grade GPUs that run in data centers. Most people who use AI products are using those cards remotely rather than relying on their own system. Again, Microsoft Copilot does not run locally, even on PCs that fit the company’s definition of an AI PC.
Where does this leave the AI PC? It’s tricky to say. As AI continues to mature, we can see these computers develop into a thriving new ecosystem. Until that happens, though, they shouldn’t affect your choice of computer.
Ever been told to “just plug the male end into the female port” and suddenly felt like you missed a day in tech class and health class? You’re not alone. Despite the oddly anatomical terminology, the difference between male and female USB ports is purely mechanical, and knowing which is which can save you from a lot of head-scratching (and mismatched cables).
In short: one plugs in, the other gets plugged into. But it’s not always obvious, especially when USB connectors come in a confusing range of types: USB-C, Micro-USB, Micro-USB, Mini-USB… the list goes on. And just because something looks like it fits doesn’t mean it’s the right match.
In this quick breakdown, we’ll show you exactly what makes a USB port “male” or “female,” and how to tell them apart without overthinking it. Let’s connect the dots and get you plugged in properly.
Here’s the quick and clean breakdown: a male USB connector is the plug — the part that sticks out and gets inserted. A female USB port is the socket — the part that stays in place and receives the plug. Think of them like a key (male) and a lock (female). They’re designed to fit together snugly and only one way, helping prevent damage and ensure a solid connection.
You’ll find male connectors at the end of most USB cables, flash drives, and dongles. If it has a rigid, protruding end that plugs into something else, it’s male.
You’ll find female ports on devices like laptops, TVs, game consoles, power banks, and wall chargers — anything that waits patiently to be connected to.
This terminology isn’t limited to USBs, by the way. It’s standard across most connector types, from HDMI to audio jacks.
So next time you’re digging through your tech drawer, trying to figure out which cable goes where, just remember: male plugs in, female receives. And if you’re still unsure, a quick look at the shape of the ends will usually clear it up.
If you’re picking up on the anatomy references in the terminology, well, you’re not wrong. The terms “male” and “female” for connectors are intentionally modeled after biological anatomy. The male connector, like a plug or pin, is the part that inserts into another component. The female connector, like a port or socket, is the part that receives.
It might feel a little cheeky or awkward in casual conversation (especially when someone says it with a straight face during a tech setup), but it actually serves a purpose — it’s an easy way to quickly describe how two parts physically fit together.
That said, some industries are gradually shifting toward more neutral language, like plug and receptacle, to keep things professional and inclusive. But the anatomy-inspired terms are still widely used because they’ve been the standard for decades.
Turning files to slides in PowerPoint just got easier
(Image credit: Shutterstock)
Microsoft Copilotis gearing up for afew big changes, and one of them is giving PowerPoint an upgrade with a new way to create slides — all from a file or document.
In ablog post, Microsoft revealed it’s giving Copilot an update in PowerPoint to create slides based on a file or prompt. This means a fully designed slide can automatically be generated by using a document, whether it be from Word or other formats.
Copilot in PowerPoint can turn a file into a slide with content based on a prompt given, too. As an example, you can note, “add a slide about key takeaways from [document attached]” to make an individual slide based on your reference.
It’s been a pain to convert any type of file into a PowerPoint presentation, but Microsoft Copilot has been making iteasier to add images and more. While there was a way to create slides via the Copilot chatbot, now it can directly be used on the canvas.
For now, the feature is available to Microsoft 365 Insiders, with it rolling out to more users soon, and PowerPoint for Windows users with a Copilot license.
There are a few known issues, including Copilot not being able to support “specific slide formatting like font, colors, background, and images,” but further updates are sure to come down the line.
In a Microsoft PowerPoint presentation, there should now be a Copilot icon above a slide.Click thisto see a dropdown menu, and you canselect “Add a slide.”
However, there is also a “New Slide with Copilot” option in the Home tab that can be selected, too.
From here, you can attach a file or document byselecting“Reference a file.”Copilot will then refer to this file to create the slide, and you can also write a prompt for Copilot to base the new slide around.
Click the “send” arrowfor Copilot to generate a slide draft, where you can edit text and make changes as you see fit.
There you have it. Microsoft offers a few tips when using it, such as making sure to direct Copilot to a specific section or topic within the file, especially if it’s large, and keeping prompts precise and snappy — like 1-2 key points.
We’ve heard aboutMicrosoft 365’s price hikes due to Copilot, and we’re now seeing these AI tools in action in PowerPoint. It’s worth noting that this feature isn’t currently available in the web version of PowerPoint, however, you can still find outhow to use Microsoft Copilot AIvia the chatbot.
Whether you’re waiting for a flight at the airport or working remotely from a coffee shop close to home, if you leave your laptop unsecured, you risk having it stolen. Laptops don’t come cheap. Even some budget-priced laptops for college students are at least a couple hundred dollars, so you most likely want to protect your investment. While most of us try to be vigilant when we have our laptop with us, if you leave it unattended or take your eyes off of it for even a few seconds, you might find it gone. That’s a hard pill to swallow, not just because of the money we spent on it but also because our laptops usually contain our personal information and other important data.
It may be hard to believe, but there are ways you can secure your laptop without having to watch it like a hawk. In the past, many laptops came with a Kensington lock slot that made it easy to attach a security cable and physically tether the device to a stationary object as a theft deterrent. However, as laptops became thinner, manufacturers started omitting this built-in security feature. That’s where the Anchor security lock adapter comes in — a device that allows you to add a lock slot to your laptop through the headphone jack — filling the security gap that was left when many manufacturers phased out Kensington lock slots on their slimmer laptop models.
The anchor security lock adapter is a small device that acts much like a security lock slot for laptops that don’t come with one built-in, like the Apple MacBook Pro M4 Max and many Ultrabooks. Laptop manufacturers have to sacrifice some features to make these laptops as thin and lightweight as they are, and the Kensington lock slot is often one of the first to go. These computers often lack USB-A ports and SD card readers as well. Still, users are willing to give these things up for the increased portability and convenience that comes with their slimmer profile.
The problem is that giving up the Kensington lock slot makes these computers harder to secure. The Multplx Anchor Adapter, which retails for $32.99 on Amazon, offers a solution to this problem. The device plugs into your computer’s 3.5mm headphone jack, allowing you to secure it with a standard cable lock without making any permanent modifications to your device. The Anchor Adapter works with standard T-Bar cable locks, including those made by Kensington. That means you can physically secure your laptop to a desk, table, or other immovable object in the same way laptops with built-in Kensington locks can be secured.
It’s easy to lock down your laptop with the Anchor Adapter. The only equipment you need to install the adapter is a screwdriver, which comes in the box with the product itself. From there, all you have to do is insert the adapter into your computer’s audio port and turn the screw to lock it in place. You can then use the T-Bar cable lock of your choice to tether your laptop to a fixed object, which can help deter opportunistic theft. If you use wireless earbuds like the Beats Powerbeats Pro 2, you probably won’t even miss the headphone jack when you’re using the adapter.
You don’t have to disconnect the Anchor Adapter when you’re finished using it. You can leave it in place, and it’s small enough to fit in laptop sleeves and backpacks. You may be wondering if a determined thief could simply remove the adapter from your laptop and take it off since it’s not a built-in security mechanism. While that’s a legitimate concern, you won’t have to worry about that happening because the lock you attach to the adapter blocks access to the screw, meaning the would-be thief would have to unlock the lock to remove the adapter, something that’s pretty hard to do without the key.
Apple’s HDR usually does a good job in extreme lighting, but sometimes the results can just look a little flat
(Image credit: Rod Lawton)
You used to be able to switch the iPhone’s HDR mode off, right? I remember when you had the option to use HDR or not, or even save a non-HDR version of the photo as well. So I went looking for that option on my iPhone and it’s gone. It’s not just moved to a different place, it’s gone altogether.
It turns out it was removed some time ago and you no longer have this option even in thebest iPhones.Apple’s support page says:
“By default, iPhone automatically uses HDR when it’s most effective. On some iPhone models, you can manually control HDR instead. On iPhone XS, iPhone XR, iPhone 11 models, iPhone SE (2nd generation), and iPhone 12 models:
“Go to Settings > Camera, then turn off Smart HDR. Then from the camera screen, tap HDR to turn it off or on. On iPhone 8, iPhone 8 Plus, and iPhone X: Go to Settings > Camera, then turn off Auto HDR.”
So that’s it. Now we’ve got HDR photos whether we want them or not. To be fair, the iPhone does usually do a good job – but not always. It’s ‘proper’ HDR, where the camera is merging separate exposures and not just doing a bit of shadow adjustment.
However, sometimes it can look a little unnatural – and sometimes the iPhone compresses the tonal range so much to capture it all that the photo just looks a bit flat.
The lighting in this scene was pretty spectacular and it needed the iPhone’s HDR capabilities – but the result just looks a bit gray and flat and there’s no way to switch off the HDR mode on the iPhone(Image credit: Rod Lawton)
The problem is not necessarily the HDR process itself, though, but the way the iPhone processes the HDR image, and that’s something youcanchange.
This is something that only more serious photographers would want to undertake, since you need to swap to a desktop photo editing app, but it does make it possible to exploit the iPhone’s terrific HDR capabilities in a much more controlled and creative way.
1. Shoot RAW
With the RAW option enabled, the iPhone will capture a raw DNG file. The picture will still look exactly the same on the iPhone and in Apple Photos, because Apple is applying its default HDR tone curve to the RAW file just as it would if you had set the camera to shoot JPEG or HEIF images.
The difference is that the RAW data is still there, and it contains a lot of extended dynamic range data.
2. Export the RAW file from Apple Photos (desktop)
Back in Apple Photos on your Mac, you can Export RAW iPhone photos in their original format. They will be saved as DNG files that you can open in other software.
If you did a whole set of shots on your iPhone, you can export them all at once and import them intoLightroomorCapture One. Or you can launchPhotoshopand open these DNG files individually.
If you open an iPhone’s DNG raw file in Adobe Camera Raw, you can swap to a more interesting profile, like Adobe Landscape, and use AI masking tools to add much more dramatic tones and colors, making full use of the extended dynamic range captured by the iPhone(Image credit: Rod Lawton)
If you use Photoshop, these DNG files will open inAdobeCamera Raw initially, where they will look pretty much as they did on your iPhone. But if you check over in the edit tools in the right sidebar, you’ll see that Adobe has automatically applied its AppleRaw Profile – and you can swap to one of the others to get a completely different look.
For example, if you choose the Adobe Color Profile, it might look like all your extended shadow and highlight detail is gone. In fact, it’s still there and you can use Adobe Camera Raw’s tonal adjustments – or, even more interesting, its masking tools – to bring it all back.
But now you’ve got much more control over the tones and contrast and you’re not stuck with Apple’s own HDR rendering.
So this is not a simple On/Off switch on your iPhone any more, but it is a way to get much better photographic results from the iPhone’s automatic HDR merging and Apple ProRaw files.
It makes the iPhone an even more serious photographic tool than it was before.
Here’s my finished photo. It shows the huge tonal range the iPhone HDR can capture, and just what you can do with its RAW DNG files in a photo editor(Image credit: Rod Lawton)
